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Description
This is the partlist i used for assembling my motorized wings. It could answer your question: " how did he do that?" . For the DIY tinkerers this could be an opportunity to shortcut some R&D work. Please note that these drawingings and notes are 'as-is'. It is a custom design with custom made parts; it is just to give you a general idea how it is done..

I am willing to share for free, but if you find my information useful, you could reward my efforts by sending me some drink money when you finished your own wings

edit aug2014:
I receive a lot of questions about the motors i used.
the four motors on the wings are 6watt Dunker motors. Type G30.1. The needed gearing ratio depends on the lead screw pitch. I used a (fairly large) 12mm pitched leadscrew, just because i found them in my workshop. If the pitch is low (like normal screw thread) you will need higher rotation speed, which causes unwanted vibrations. If your motor is not strong enough, you could gain force by reducing the speed of the wing movement (folding, lifting); choose a different gearing ratio. The gas spring is there to help the motor lift the wing. You should test your own frame design before spending your money on the wrong parts. Remember that this design is sort of improvised.
The 2 big flapping motors are Nidec GMPD 404764 types. speed=18RPM. Torque is 4Nm. Power is 7.5W. Maybe too strong (=too heavy) because they still lift the wings when i am in a horizontal position, which is not really required.
To get rid of all the design flaws, i changed/upgraded the design to bushitaka.deviantart.com/galle…, which could be made into bird/bat or moth wings. This frame is less heavy. not only because its span is reduced, but more because the bulky motors & gearing are optimized (minimized).
Somehow I choose to use 24V motors: high(er) voltage means lower current. I thought that would be good for the battery life. I used 20 rechargeable AA cells. Good results with eneloop cells. don't believe the high-capacity claims on cheaper brands. The smaller moth frame is a 12V system, because i got rid of the 2 big current-draining motors. Saves weight too. I guess that any motor that need more the 1Amp to run, need some sort of calculation; just to be sure you are on the safe side.

Description
This is the partlist i used for assembling my motorized wings. It could answer your question: " how did he do that?" . For the DIY tinkerers this could be an opportunity to shortcut some R&D work. Please note that these drawingings and notes are 'as-is'. It is a custom design with custom made parts; it is just to give you a general idea how it is done..

I am willing to share for free, but if you find my information useful, you could reward my efforts by sending me some drink money when you finished your own wings

edit aug2014:
I receive a lot of questions about the motors i used.
the four motors on the wings are 6watt Dunker motors. Type G30.1. The needed gearing ratio depends on the lead screw pitch. I used a (fairly large) 12mm pitched leadscrew, just because i found them in my workshop. If the pitch is low (like normal screw thread) you will need higher rotation speed, which causes unwanted vibrations. If your motor is not strong enough, you could gain force by reducing the speed of the wing movement (folding, lifting); choose a different gearing ratio. The gas spring is there to help the motor lift the wing. You should test your own frame design before spending your money on the wrong parts. Remember that this design is sort of improvised.
The 2 big flapping motors are Nidec GMPD 404764 types. speed=18RPM. Torque is 4Nm. Power is 7.5W. Maybe too strong (=too heavy) because they still lift the wings when i am in a horizontal position, which is not really required.
To get rid of all the design flaws, i changed/upgraded the design to bushitaka.deviantart.com/galle…, which could be made into bird/bat or moth wings. This frame is less heavy. not only because its span is reduced, but more because the bulky motors & gearing are optimized (minimized).
Somehow I choose to use 24V motors: high(er) voltage means lower current. I thought that would be good for the battery life. I used 20 rechargeable AA cells. Good results with eneloop cells. don't believe the high-capacity claims on cheaper brands. The smaller moth frame is a 12V system, because i got rid of the 2 big current-draining motors. Saves weight too. I guess that any motor that need more the 1Amp to run, need some sort of calculation; just to be sure you are on the safe side.