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Lumi-Yugen In reply to vampyre1 [2009-12-03 17:36:17 +0000 UTC]

haha, well, when I first tried cell shading I failed miserably. But after I learnt to break them down to basic shapes I finally understood what to do.

Thanks for the fave and if you ever have a question about it, don't hesitate to ask!

By the way, I do have a question about photomanipulation...do you normally have to paint over everything again after you have composed your picture? Just curious....

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vampyre1 In reply to Lumi-Yugen [2009-12-04 05:24:00 +0000 UTC]

No prob, I found very good practice .. really essential to learn good lighting and shadows and shading, that's the beginning as you said it my friend

Well, yes usually I have to paint over verything even when I used to paint the most of things in my manips for to qualify the lights, shadows and adjust the lighting when the images do not match

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Lumi-Yugen In reply to vampyre1 [2009-12-04 14:50:47 +0000 UTC]

wow, it's a lot of work... but it's awesome how much detail can be achieved in a photomanip! Thanks for the info!

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vampyre1 In reply to Lumi-Yugen [2009-12-05 18:00:17 +0000 UTC]

No prob my friend!

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Lumi-Yugen In reply to Tormented-Complex [2009-12-03 16:12:08 +0000 UTC]

You're very welcome!
I hope it helps! This is the standard way of shading guaranteed to make your 2D object start popping out and looking 3D.

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Tormented-Complex In reply to Lumi-Yugen [2009-12-04 10:19:35 +0000 UTC]

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Lumi-Yugen In reply to Nagusame [2009-12-03 16:53:39 +0000 UTC]

Hmm...I did this some time ago so I can't exactly remember anymore but I use a combination of screen mode and normal mode to get my results. The glossy look is due to the screen mode. It looks polished right? Somehow stuff shaded using screen mode automatically has a smooth luminous sheen.

I start with the base color which is the shadow color. Then I lasso out the areas to be highlighted, leaving the shadow areas untouched. For the cylinder I started by making a narrow selection in the middle ( the core highlight ). Then brush with a soft blue ( In screen mode, 75 opacity, 50 percent flow, called screen color 1 ) Next I select a wider area, also including the core highlight, and brush again. ( Using Screen color 2, a slightly different color ) This makes the core highlight stay the brightest as it should be. Then I selected an even wider area with the lasso but to make the bright part fade softly into shadows, I reduce the size of the brush circle until it is slightly smaller than the lasso width. ( To avoid picking up the hard edge of the selection ) Then brush down. The shape of the brush I used has a "splattery" outside, so it creates the impression of softly fading.

That's the way I brushed.

The complete set includes
1. core highlight ( the most reflective part )
2. highlight ( fainter highlight )
3. warm rim light ( brush the side receiving direct light with light yellow with screen mode)
4. cold rim light ( brush the opposite, "shadow" side with soft blue in screen mode )
( Rim light refers to the part where the object starts curving and reflects light along its edges )

And also the highlight becomes more diffused near the bottom of the object,due to the reflected light bouncing up from the ground. ( When the object is sitting on the ground )

Does this answer your question? Sometimes this style of shading is not appropriate for the situation, or maybe not even accurate, but they do instantly make the flat object pop out in 3D whether it is realistic or not. xD

I'll show you the brushes and the colors I used in a note!

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Nagusame In reply to Lumi-Yugen [2009-12-05 16:37:02 +0000 UTC]

that's a big explanation
i bet it took you time...wow.
and yes, this answer my question
thanks .

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Lumi-Yugen In reply to Nagusame [2009-12-05 16:59:40 +0000 UTC]

haha...I'm not used to explaing art techniques...so I may say a lot of unneccessary things...

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