HOME | DD
#tutorial #lightroom #projecteducate #softwaretutorial #lightroomtutorial
Published: 2019-08-29 18:00:01 +0000 UTC; Views: 5630; Favourites: 39; Downloads: 0
Redirect to original
Description
/* ------------------------------ INSTRUCTIONS ------------------------------ */ /* DO NOT EDIT THIS! UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCE APPLY CHANGES TO THE CSS IN HERE, THE HEADER OR FOOTER! */ /* ----- Check out the full instructions: http://sta.sh/0h0h2gr62n9 ----- */ /* -----Week title ----- */ /* Put
Software Introduction Week
Many beginning photographers might think that Photoshop is the only way to go when it comes to photo editing, but Lightroom is an excellent streamlined alternative with non-destructive editing capabilities! For the purposes of this article we'll be working in Lightroom 5, which is a past version of Lightroom.
If you don't have the program already, your options will be Lightroom Classic (which is available through Adobe's CC plans bundled with Photoshop for $9.99/month) or if you're not interested in software updates as they are released, you can also purchase a perpetual license for Lightroom 6 for $159.00. I personally use Lightroom 5 99% of the time, and see little difference between these three versions, so you should have no issues understanding this overview no matter what version you're using. An older version will likely have less features, but will still be completely usable!
Lightroom is most effective when using RAW files, whether they're in the Adobe DNG format or a camera manufacturer's specific format like NEF, CR2, ORF, etc. You can also edit other formats like JPEG or TIFF files, but there is less information that can be recovered from these files for editing things like shadows and highlights.
Importing
To start off, you're going to want to import your photos to Lightroom. I usually import directly from my memory card, but you also have the option of pulling files off your computer. When you import your photos, you're adding them to your Lightroom catalog which stores info about all of your previous lightroom edits. If the original file gets moved or deleted, the edit information will still be stored in the catalog, and you'll just need to re-add or locate the file for it to be accessible again.
In the top left, you'll choose where you want to import "FROM," whether it's the Camera or Card Reader or somewhere else on your computer. Then, you'll select the files you want to import in the center of the module. Next, you'll choose where you want the files imported to on the top right hand of the screen.
If your files are already on your hard-drive, Lightroom will simply import the photos only to the catalog.
- Want your files backed up somewhere else? I personally have mirror copies of my two external hard drives in case one fails; it is ALWAYS a good idea to have a couple of places your files are stored. In Lightroom, you can check off "make a second copy to" and point it to where you'd like the files to be backed up to.
- Really into organizing your files? You can also add keywords to the photos while importing (I'm bad about doing this), but it might be helpful for you if you want to later be able to pull up the files from all of your shoots with a certain model or maybe all photos you've taken at a certain location, etc. You can add multiple keywords separated with commas. After you import your files, you can still change up and add keywords to your photos in the library module.
- You can also rename the files to something else if you'd like!
For today's tutorial, we'll be staying in the Library and Develop modules.
Quick Collection
You probably thought we would be talking about editing your photos next, right? Before editing your photos, you need to decide which photos to edit though!
Culling your photos down to your favorites is really easy in Lightroom. You don't need to delete or move anything. Instead, I'm going to introduce you to one of my favorite Lightroom features: Quick collection!
As you scroll through your photos you've taken, I'm sure some photos will immediately jump out at you as favorites! Adding a photo to your quick collection is kind of like favoriting a deviation on DA. After favoriting, you'll be able to access your quick collection and see all of your favorited files there afterwards.
To quick collect a photo with your mouse, you'll hover over the thumbnail photo in your Lightroom film strip. In the top right corner, there's an outline of a circle, click on the circle and it will be added!
After you're done picking your favorites, you can access your quick collection by the catalog drop-down on the left-hand side of lightroom in the Library module. Click on "Quick Collection +" and you'll be looking at all of your favorites!
Develop
What's next? Editing, of course! For this, we're going to switch over from the Library module to the Develop module.
Besides being amazing to organize your photos, Lightroom also has some seriously strong and easy to use editing capabilities. Whereas in Photoshop you can get a bit lost in the amount of functions at your fingertips, Lightroom is quite simple and to-the-point.
On the left-hand side of Lightroom, you'll find a ton of different editing options as well as a histogram and a quick run-down of your camera settings for each photo.
Let's start off with the different sections: Basic, Tone Curve, HSL/Color/B&W, Split Toning, Details, Lens Corrections, Effects, and Camera Calibrations.
There's a lot of ground to cover, so I'm not going to go into a lot of detail for each section!
Basic
Is your photo's color balance a little cool or a little too warm? Or maybe you're hoping to create a different atmosphere than the actual real-life setting. The Temp and Tint sliders are hands-down incredible, and they shine their best on RAW files.
Next are some fairly obvious ones:
Exposure (increase or decrease the exposure)
Contrast (increase or decrease the contrast)
Highlights (increase or decrease the highlights)
Shadows (increase or decrease the shadows)
Whites (increase or decrease the whites)
Blacks (increase or decrease the blacks)
Just taking your time to try these out will explain more than I can in words, plus, in Lightroom everything is easy to change right back to how you started since it's nearly all based on sliders. Experimenting is your best method of learning!
Next you'll see: clarity, vibrance, and saturation.
Clarity is an awesome tool, but make sure you don't over-do it or it can look real cheesy real fast. Clarity affects the midtones of your image and creates contrast in them (or creates less contrast if you slide to the left). Essentially it really pops the details of your image.
Vibrance and Saturation will affect the colors of your photo. What is the difference you're probably asking? Saturation will increase the intensity of all of the colors in your photos, whereas vibrance will focus on the colors in your photo that are less saturated first and also work to preserve the skin-tones in your photo. I personally like using a combination of both, sometimes decreasing saturation and increasing vibrance, sometimes the opposite, or sometimes even increasing or decreasing both.
Tone Curve
The next section is your tone curve. On the RGB channel, you'll be working with a tonal curve to create contrast on your image in a much more customizable way. However, click on RGB and you'll be able to select individual color channels: Red, Green, and Blue to manipulate each color channel also on a curve. This can help you to create some really interesting color toning in your photo without ever entering Photoshop!
HSL, Color, and B&W
Next up is HSL, Color, and B&W. You can select each one to enter their individual sections.
HSL and Color do similar things but they're laid out in different ways.
In HSL, you'll choose between Hue, Saturation, and Luminance and then be able to affect all of the colors in your photo for those categories.
In the Color section, you're choosing between the colors individually in your photo and then affecting each color's Hue, Saturation, and Luminance. Whichever method is your favorite is your choice.
The hue sliders will change that individual color's hue in your photo. Wish your reds were more orange or your greens were more yellow? This is where you can change this. Saturation will affect the saturation of the chosen color in your photo. Wish the greens weren't quite so bright? You can desaturate them specifically here without affecting the rest of your photo! The luminance sliders increase the "luminance" or decrease it for each color.
Or maybe you couldn't care less about color? Then check out the B&W section and it will let you brighten or darken each of the original colors in your photo to convert to the perfect black and white photograph (any color toning you do on the curves or split-toning will show up on a b&w photo).
Split Toning
Split toning is a very simple way of color-toning your photos! You'll be adding subtle (or bold) color to your highlights and shadows here. The hue will affect which color you would like to add and the saturation will affect how subtle or bold the effect is. You can play around with balance until you achieve your favorite look.
At this point, you'll want to finalize how you'd like the colors, contrast, etc to look in your photo. This is a good time for going back to previous sections and playing around!
Detail
Once you like the overall look you have to your photo, we can move onto the detail section. For this, you'll likely want to zoom into your photo by clicking on it with the magnifying glass or you move around the little preview box with your mouse in the detail section by clicking and dragging.
Sharpening will add sharpness to your photo while also making the noise in your photo more apparent. This is essentially the trade-off of most global methods of sharpening (global meaning affecting the whole photo at once). I usually stick with the preset that Lightroom starts me out at:
amount: 25
radius: 1.0
detail: 25
masking: 0
The noise reductions tools are some of my favorite though! The camera I use doesn't tend to handle noise in photographs well, so this is a super easy global solution. You'll mostly be working zoomed into your photo and just sliding things around until you find something that lets your image be sharp enough while also minimizing the noise. This photo is not a great example since I shot it well-exposed and at 100 ISO
The color section of noise reduction is usually pre-set at 25/50/50, usually this will be adequate. However if you're working with a really high ISO image or you've substantially increased the exposure of a photo, you might need to increase the color noise reduction. Instead of noise that's grainy, this noise is almost like color confetti on your photo when you're zoomed in. Be mindful of not affecting the actual colors in your photo when using this. The higher you raise the color noise reduction, the more likely it will be to also desaturate saturated colors in your photo.
This color noise is naturally there but also enhanced because of some of the color toning I've done.
Lens Corrections
We're getting into more advanced editing at this point, and you can feel free to skip over it if you like. The main functions of this section are to correct chromatic abberation (the little streaks of color you sometimes see in the edges of highlights), any kind of lens distortions you may have, and also to add or remove a vignette (which is the darkening at the edges of your photo). These can be incredibly effective but are not really a "must do" on most photos.
Chromatic abberations
Zoom into your photo and find the section where you see some of the more intense chromatic aberrations. It's not in all photos, but you can usually find it around "blown out" portions of your photo (really white whites).
Navigate to the "color" portion of this section. If your abberation is pink-toned you'll be playing around with the top two sliders, if it's green-toned you'll be working with the bottom two. It's not an exact science, just slide them around until the chromatic aberration disappears. As I mentioned earlier, be mindful that it only affects the aberrations in your photo.
Lens Distortions and Vignette
For this, you'll want to see your photo in full-view. Then click on the "manual" portion of the section. Using the transform sliders, you'll be able to correct small or large amounts of lens distortion. Checking off the constrain crop box will make sure there are no borders on the edges of your photo as a result of "transforming" it.
Interested in getting rid of vignetting or adding it as an artistic choice? That's also in this section. Slide to the left for darkening the edges or to the right for lightening the edges. Midpoint will then affect how close to the center the vignetting is added.
Effects
We already talked about adding a vignette in the last section, but this is an even more custom vignette you can add in this section as well as being able to add grain to your photo. We just talked about taking it out of your photo with noise reduction, but maybe that's not your aesthetic at all! This is all about developing your style so experiment as you will.
Now we're going to talk about these little symbols right under the histogram and camera settings, they are: Crop & Straighten, Spot Removal, Red Eye Correction, Graduated Filter, Radial Filter, and the Adjustment Brush.
Crop & Straighten
Exactly what it says, you can crop your photo and straighten it; you can also choose a different aspect ratio if you so wish.
Spot removal
If you don't have Photoshop to retouch a photo or just need to get rid of a small distraction, this is a nifty little tool. You're going to be selecting the portion you want to get rid of and then Lightroom will auto select a portion it thinks will be good to clone over top of it. Lightroom is smart but not always smart enough (sorry Lightroom, I do actually love you...), a lot of the time, you'll need to move around the sections it's cloning from or to by clicking and dragging the circles to get the right effect. You can choose from "heal" or "clone." Clone will give you an exact replica of the source you're pulling from, while heal will blend it a bit more.
The feather sliders will blend in the edges more or less. This can be extremely helpful either way depending on the source you're working with. The opacity sliders will of course cover more or less of the spot you've selected to "remove."
Red Eye Correction
Before I started using off-camera flash, I used this A LOT. I still use it sometimes for events when I use on-camera flash. If you've ever had red eye in a flash photograph, you immediately know it's a photo killer. Nobody wants their photo subject to look like a demon (except for when you actually totally do...). Lightroom's method for taking care of it is very simple and very effective.
Zoom into your photo first. Hover over the red eye in your image that you want to correct and click and hold down your cursor over the center of the red eye. While you're still holding down, drag your cursor towards or away from the dot until the circle it has created selects the whole area of the red eye. Lightroom will automatically find and eliminate the red eye in that area. Sometimes you'll need to move the "spot" around it has created until it covers it correctly. You can then use the "pupil size" and "darken" sliders until you get the effect that you want.
Graduated Filter
Next is a fun tool for creating lighting and color effects among other things! I really like this for creating some drama in the sky of my landscape photos. The possibilities for it are nearly endless though! Whereas the sliders that we went over before are about global adjustments, the tools at the top are all about adjusting parts of the photo. For example, maybe you want to darken the sky and bring out the color of it in a photo, but you don't want to affect the whole photo with these changes. The graduated filter adds a graduated effect that helps blend your changes with the rest of the photo.
There are lots of options to change your photos with the sliders, but the most important part is figuring out how to use it in the first place! You'll want to go to the side of the photo you want the effect to originate from. If you want to affect the sky, you're probably going to move your cursor to the center top of the photo. Hold down the mouse and drag the cursor down until you're to the bottom of your photo. This can be customized later, but for now you'll see that your photo is bi-sected into two portions. Use the sliders how you'd like and then feel free to re-position the filter to gradually effect your photo however you choose! You can get as crazy as you'd like adding more graduated filters to affect your photo in different ways. As cheesy as it sounds, the only limits are your imagination.
Radial Filter
The radial filter does a similar thing to the graduated filter, but your selection will be a circle and the effect will gradually radiate inwards. I like to use this for outdoors golden hour portraits where there's a lot of scenery around the subject. Instead of making the subject overly warm-toned, I'll select the subject (clicking and dragging the circle it creates inwards and outwards) until my circle covers the subjects and a bit of the scenery. I'll then use the sliders to affect the color temperature and tint as well as any other effects I like the look of. This is also great for when you want to create a grittier look with clarity around your subject, but don't want to actually affect your subject. As with the graduated filter, the more you play with it, the more you'll realize what you can use it for.
Adjustment Brush
This is a really useful tool! The adjustment brush is for spot adjustments of color, texture, brightness, darkness, contrast, and more! This is great for things such as enhancing the color or brightening the catch-light of your subject's eye, whitening your subject's teeth, making the texture of your subject's skin a bit softer, enhancing the contrast and texture of a portion of the image, and more. All you'll need to do is paint the portion you want to change with your paintbrush tool (size can be adjusted), and then slide the sliders to where you'd like. There's also a box with an X through it marked "color." If you click on this box, you can select any color on the spectrum to be able to paint with, you can also adjust the saturation of the color. HOWEVER, always be sure to use this extraordinary power for good and not evil, but also always have fun
You can paint the brush over multiple areas for the adjustment to affect multiple sections. Here I'm experimenting with warming and brightening the flames on the candelabra.
Syncing
Besides the ease of using Lightroom, my favorite function is being able to edit one photo and then apply those edits selectively to the rest of your photos in the set. With the photo you've just worked on selected, hold down the control or shift key (depending on whether you want to select all of the images from the set or just individual ones) and select your chosen photographs. Then simply click "sync" in the bottom right corner.
From the pop-up you can choose which changes you would like to sync; then to apply, click synchronize on the pop-up screen. This will apply your adjustments to all of your selected photos, where you can then add individual adjustments to suit each photo. This saves so much time editing and getting a cohesive look!
Exporting
And finally (for this article, at least): EXPORTING! You've learned how to import your photos and edit them how you'd like, but now you want to save them so you can share them! Click the library module at the top and select your images you'd like to export. The pop-up box will first ask you where you want to save these photos, then whether or not you'd like to rename your photos.
Go to file settings. This is a very important box. If you plan on editing your photos further in Photoshop, you'll want to export as a PSD or TIFF and possibly with a larger color space and bit depth (if I'm exporting to photoshop for more editing, my default is PSD, ProPhoto RGB, and 16 bits/component). For the sake of this article, let's assume you're completely done with your photos though and ready to share them with the world!
To save files ready to share, you'll select JPEG from the file type, sRGB color space and 100 quality. Want to go back and edit later? You'll always have that option as long as you have the original files and catalog. Next we're moving onto image sizing. For printing and full-size viewing, you won't need to "resize to fit", but you will want to export with 300 pixels per inch resolution. Wanting to post a lower resolution photo online? I usually resize to fit to a 10 or 12-inch on the long edge and 72 resolution. This is your personal preference. Skip down to post-processing. Click the after export box and decide what you'd like to do after the photos finish exporting. Some of your options are "Open in Adobe Photoshop", "Do nothing", and "show in explorer". If you want to share them now, click "do nothing" and Lightroom will simply export your photos to the location you've chosen, and you're ready to go!
You did it! You used Lightroom to create something cool! Give yourself a pat on the back
Want to see some more in-depth use of Lightroom? Check out my Lightroom Tips and Tricks article here:
Lightroom Tips and TricksPhotography WeekToday I'll be showing you some tips and tricks for Lightroom 5 that I've come to use often over the past few years of using the program. Even though I'm using Lightroom 5, these tips and tricks might still be helpful for you in past versions of the program as well as newer versions (the modules and buttons will likely be switched around a bit though). I am mostly a portrait photographer, but these tips and tricks can easily be adapted and used with any subject your lens captures. I prefer using RAW formatted files in Lightroom for the best quality. Color Toning No matter what you refer to it as: color toning, color gradin...
Related content
Comments: 12
TenthMusePhotography [2019-08-30 18:27:15 +0000 UTC]
This is detailed and thorough. Well done! I must admit that I have never used the Quick Collection feature. I will have to try it out. For culling/sorting photos that have just been imported, I like to use P and X to pick and reject, and then rate my favourites from the picked photos with a 1. If I need to narrow it down further, I do another pass and rate the best ones with a 2, and so forth.
👍: 0 ⏩: 1
Queen-Kitty In reply to TenthMusePhotography [2019-09-04 19:43:01 +0000 UTC]
That works as well! I think it's just preference for whatever you find easier or quicker I also like to use the color coding, if I'm marking different team members selections, makes it easier to remember who picked what.
👍: 0 ⏩: 0
DocTaz [2019-08-30 16:25:01 +0000 UTC]
Thanks for the tutorial! I normally use RawTherapee/Gimp in Linux, but I dual boot with Win10 so I may look into scoring Lightroom or Photoshop sometime.
👍: 0 ⏩: 2
Queen-Kitty In reply to DocTaz [2019-09-04 19:40:56 +0000 UTC]
It's a great program I've used Gimp way back in the day, but haven't tried RawTherapee before!
👍: 1 ⏩: 0
NykolaiAleksander [2019-08-29 18:53:00 +0000 UTC]
This is so detailed, I am sure everyone reading this will no go, 'Okay, I can do this!'
Thanks so much for putting this together.
👍: 0 ⏩: 1
Queen-Kitty In reply to NykolaiAleksander [2019-09-04 18:00:59 +0000 UTC]
haha so glad to hear it! Thank you for letting me be a part of the week
👍: 0 ⏩: 1
KovoWolf In reply to Queen-Kitty [2019-09-04 20:14:10 +0000 UTC]
👍: 0 ⏩: 0