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Description
quick tutorial for a friend on my style of digital shading and some color theory points for reference/explanation.

this assumes some prior knowledge of color theory such as primary/secondary colors and warm/cool colors. i cover it lightly here, but you probably already know that stuff so i tried not to spend too much time on it.

this is basically how i choose colors to shade. i move towards cooler (and obviously darker) colors for shadows and deepen more recessive areas with a dark purple tone. for highlights, i move towards warmer (and obviously brighter) colors and use tints. your base color can be intense hues or any color in between. i tried to give a range of examples in the table at the bottom. for very light colors like pastels, your depth will be built up in your shadows. for very dark colors, you'll focus on building depth by using your highlights. this is most notably true for blacks. i never use full on black for a base color: i always use an extremely dark ALMOST black version of the type of light i'm going for (warm light i use a blackish-red or orange; cool light i use a blackish-blue or purple). this also goes for whites. i never use pure white. i always use a super light version of the color of the light (super light orange or yellow for warm light; super light blue or purple for cool light).
you don't have to use as many shadow layers as i use. just remember that the more colors (and variation in colors) you use to shade/highlight, the more complex your shadows, highlights, and ultimately object will become. do what looks best to you and works best for your picture.
the differences in changes between your shadow and highlight colors will also change the strength, proximity to light source, and depth of your shadows. spacing your shadow colors close together will create a more shallow shadow. spacing them far apart with great changes in between will create deep, intense shadows. shallow shadows happen mostly in flatter areas (think light wrinkles or creases in clothing). deep shadows happen, you know, in deeper areas (like on the neck under the head/jawline or deep clothing wrinkles). intense bright light creates deep shadows, intense highlights, high contrast. weak light creates shallow shadows, more subtle highlights, low contrast.
for example, moonlight (blue) could give you bright whitish highlights and shallow shadows. sunsets (red/orange) could give you intense shadows and warm, yellow, saturated highlights. noon (mostly white, maybe yellow) light could give you general shadows and highlights. morning light (yellow/white) could give you intense whitish highlights, and dark shadows. generally, strong light creates higher contrast.

on a more complex note:
you'll also have to vary these depending on the kind of surface or texture you're going for, which is more advanced. for quick example, metals will have higher contrast between shadows and the base, and highlights and the base. silk works in a similar way. matte surfaces generally have more shallow, softer differences.

this doesn't cover skin, but generally, i start from a peachy base (or darker warm brown depending on the skin color) and shade with oranges and reds. i shine with VERY pale, almost white peachy tints, or just light colors that match the skin color. i try to stay away from using yellows to shine skin - it can make a person look sick. matching whitish versions of the skin color (or generally paler versions for darker skintones) work best.

hopefully this answers basic questions.

i'm not an expert in color theory or shading and i'm definitely not a professional. everyone has their own methods to shade; this is just the way i work. you are more than welcome to use this as a jumping-off point for your shading style. you're encouraged to put your own spin on this and tweak it to meet your needs.
i in no way claim this to be a "correct" way of shading. it's just what i do.

i hope this helps (and it's not overkill)

-----------

artwork and explanations are my own.

Description
quick tutorial for a friend on my style of digital shading and some color theory points for reference/explanation.

this assumes some prior knowledge of color theory such as primary/secondary colors and warm/cool colors. i cover it lightly here, but you probably already know that stuff so i tried not to spend too much time on it.

this is basically how i choose colors to shade. i move towards cooler (and obviously darker) colors for shadows and deepen more recessive areas with a dark purple tone. for highlights, i move towards warmer (and obviously brighter) colors and use tints. your base color can be intense hues or any color in between. i tried to give a range of examples in the table at the bottom. for very light colors like pastels, your depth will be built up in your shadows. for very dark colors, you'll focus on building depth by using your highlights. this is most notably true for blacks. i never use full on black for a base color: i always use an extremely dark ALMOST black version of the type of light i'm going for (warm light i use a blackish-red or orange; cool light i use a blackish-blue or purple). this also goes for whites. i never use pure white. i always use a super light version of the color of the light (super light orange or yellow for warm light; super light blue or purple for cool light).
you don't have to use as many shadow layers as i use. just remember that the more colors (and variation in colors) you use to shade/highlight, the more complex your shadows, highlights, and ultimately object will become. do what looks best to you and works best for your picture.
the differences in changes between your shadow and highlight colors will also change the strength, proximity to light source, and depth of your shadows. spacing your shadow colors close together will create a more shallow shadow. spacing them far apart with great changes in between will create deep, intense shadows. shallow shadows happen mostly in flatter areas (think light wrinkles or creases in clothing). deep shadows happen, you know, in deeper areas (like on the neck under the head/jawline or deep clothing wrinkles). intense bright light creates deep shadows, intense highlights, high contrast. weak light creates shallow shadows, more subtle highlights, low contrast.
for example, moonlight (blue) could give you bright whitish highlights and shallow shadows. sunsets (red/orange) could give you intense shadows and warm, yellow, saturated highlights. noon (mostly white, maybe yellow) light could give you general shadows and highlights. morning light (yellow/white) could give you intense whitish highlights, and dark shadows. generally, strong light creates higher contrast.

on a more complex note:
you'll also have to vary these depending on the kind of surface or texture you're going for, which is more advanced. for quick example, metals will have higher contrast between shadows and the base, and highlights and the base. silk works in a similar way. matte surfaces generally have more shallow, softer differences.

this doesn't cover skin, but generally, i start from a peachy base (or darker warm brown depending on the skin color) and shade with oranges and reds. i shine with VERY pale, almost white peachy tints, or just light colors that match the skin color. i try to stay away from using yellows to shine skin - it can make a person look sick. matching whitish versions of the skin color (or generally paler versions for darker skintones) work best.

hopefully this answers basic questions.

i'm not an expert in color theory or shading and i'm definitely not a professional. everyone has their own methods to shade; this is just the way i work. you are more than welcome to use this as a jumping-off point for your shading style. you're encouraged to put your own spin on this and tweak it to meet your needs.
i in no way claim this to be a "correct" way of shading. it's just what i do.

i hope this helps (and it's not overkill)

-----------

artwork and explanations are my own.