HOME | DD
RuffleButtCosplay — How to make Props with Plastidip and Foam Sheets
Published: 2013-02-12 22:48:21 +0000 UTC; Views: 97745; Favourites: 1401; Downloads: 505
Redirect to original
Description
New tutorial. Enjoy!*I SHOULD NOTE* I used the quarter inch foamie sheets for this.
Related content
Comments: 53
I tried this on craft foam sheets and they just soaked up the plastidip and it didn't look anything like yours. Any idea what went wrong?
👍: 0 ⏩: 1
Not OP but add 2 - 3 layers of Mod Podge or a mixture of water & white glue before Plasti-Dip. Your craft foam is too porous so it's just eating away at your Plasti-Dip. Good luck!
👍: 0 ⏩: 2
another tip I'd add: before you add the mod podge, be sure to heat seal your foam really good with a heat gun first. But yea, Xaynie is right: be sure to add mod podge before you add plastidip. I'd recommend using a foam brush to apply it for a smoother coating (or so I've learned, anyway)
👍: 0 ⏩: 0
Where did you get your Eva Foam? It looks like you got the 1/4 inch instead of the 1/2 inch. I'm looking for the 1/4 inch because I need thinner Eva foam that can bend a little more.
Please get back to me soon, and thanks for reading my comment!
👍: 0 ⏩: 1
Also on the side note, did you buy the foam mats or the foam rolls? Im trying to find Foam rolls instead of the mats because I'm working on a large project.
👍: 0 ⏩: 0
I'm curious, what Cosplay did you use this prop on ?
👍: 0 ⏩: 1
for the plugsuit of Asuka from evangelion she has this backpack on her back :3
👍: 0 ⏩: 0
Another good one! Thank you for the breakdown and the supplies list!
👍: 0 ⏩: 0
What kind of foam is this exactly? Because I've tried googling and looking in various craft shops and only found the kind that is used for cushioning.
👍: 0 ⏩: 0
Hi! I'm trying to make a batgirl cowl for my cosplay, and I'm wondering if this turns out at all flexible? I'm going to need a way to get it on my head somehow. And if this isn't flexible, would I be able to make a mould of my head and cast the whole thing in plastidip? Thanks!
👍: 0 ⏩: 0
Normally i coat foam with varnish before painting specially if im gonna use Spray.
But this is a nice idea here 
Gonna try it
👍: 0 ⏩: 1
This is definitely going to come in handy for my GLaDOS cosplay.
👍: 0 ⏩: 1
Awesome thank you! Plastidip doesn't erode anything when applied directly? O.o
👍: 0 ⏩: 1
Excellent tutorial, this is definitely a technique to keep in mind for posterity. How durable would you say props made with this method are?
👍: 0 ⏩: 1
very durable. The thing you will have to worry about the most is the paint job.
👍: 0 ⏩: 1
Ooh, excellent. I've been trying to figure out how to tackle making this ginormous grenade launcher arm cannon thingy for my Black Dahlia cosplay in the works, and if that's the case, then I may have just gotten my method!
👍: 0 ⏩: 0
Hi RB! I was referred here via the Cosplay Tutorial FB page sharing your tutorial! Thanks for sharing your knowledge!
👍: 0 ⏩: 1
Thank you for sharing!
👍: 0 ⏩: 1
And thank you for sharing your technique!
👍: 0 ⏩: 0
MAKE ALL THE THINGS!
👍: 0 ⏩: 0
This will hopefully be my ah-ha moment in making the props I need!
👍: 0 ⏩: 1
Thanks! I kinda suck at props, so that means a lot! haha.
👍: 0 ⏩: 0
Very neat! Thanks for sharing~
I have the same spray paint XD
👍: 0 ⏩: 0
Thanks so much for the detailed how-to! I hadn't heard of the use of contact cement and wood filler for bonding foam until this tutorial--great tips.
👍: 0 ⏩: 0
Never even heard of plastidip before, very cool. thanks!
👍: 0 ⏩: 0
This is awesome, I can't wait to try this out! Thanks for sharing!
👍: 0 ⏩: 0
I would simply like to add, the spray on Plasti-Dip actually eats away at the foam. if you use the cans and paint it on, it solves that problem (it's something in the aerosol propellant can that reacts)
You'll get a sharper, cleaner finish if you were to do that. Over all, very nice piece. Great job.
👍: 0 ⏩: 1
I use it directly on the foam with no problems.
👍: 0 ⏩: 0
Awesome tutorial! (Love the name change too, btw)
I've used similar methods for making large semi-rigid props or body armor. A couple tricks I learned over time:
On the inner layers that can't/won't be seen, you can cut out portions of the center to reduce weight and increase flexibility during shaping/bonding. (This hollow space can also end up holding electronics if lighting is needed.)
Lightly score the inner side of each layer in rows perpendicular to the direction of the bend for pieces that will eventually need to be curved. This will also increase bonding strength because the glue/contact cement will "bite" into the scoring. Make the scores about 1/2 to 2/3 through each layer with a very sharp utility knife and a straight-edge.
👍: 0 ⏩: 0
Wow, I can see something like this being made to house portable hard drives and stuff. you could model the pieces to fit around wrists and hands like gloves or something like that.
Dreaming of a bracelet that holds small hard drives.
👍: 0 ⏩: 0
Dude this is awesome, I am using this for all my Rosie armor!
👍: 0 ⏩: 0
| Next =>