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skynetbeta — Fluttershy Test
Published: 2013-02-09 18:41:45 +0000 UTC; Views: 712; Favourites: 11; Downloads: 0
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Description
Pony models printed to test machines repeatability and resolution 3D models made by [link]Error in center of model caused by a break in the STL file.
My Little Pony copyright of Hasbro and Lauren Faust
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Comments: 16
Excellent resolution on these prints. Is this from a proprietary printer or a Mendel90? If you told me it was from a prusa I don't know if I'd believe that! XD
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It is done on a dimension Uprint SE.
I will be getting my own Revolution XL at the end of the month. Then modifying it with a heated build envelope to get the same resolution as the Uprint. I will also modify the extruder head with custom parts.
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Huh... I wonder why so many people are going for the proprietary stuff. I like the Prusa RepRaps myself. Only a few hundred to source all the parts and you gain a wealth of knowledge putting it together, so if anything breaks you know exactly how to fix it, you can make more printers more easily after the first, and although it's got less resolution initially, for most applications it's not much resolution to lose, and you can tune it to have resolution similar to that of thousand dollar printers if you've got enough experience.
Plus there's no restrictions on printing material as long as you have the know-how, and you don't have to bend to the legal whims of some company when they try to restrict use and only allow people to print with their expensive materials, or not print certain STL files, or whatever.
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The reason I am aquiring a proprietary machine is that I wish to start off with a very well built platform. I have assembled and worked with the Prusa RepRaps on several occasions. I do agree that they can be customized however they can only be tuned so much. After a certain point the resources and time put in equals the value of a better constructed proprietary machine.
As for as the legal whims of a company as long as you don't have a service plan they could care less what you do with the machine. In fact some companies encourage modification of there products. The basic construction of most additive manufacture machines are basically the same. Were they differ is in the materials, print heads, layouts, and software used in there construction and implementation. In regards to STL formats I have yet to encounter any machine that does not accept standard STL files.
I am curious to know what you have done to your machine to improve resolution and repeatability. What other materials have you printed in besides ABS? Have you worked with any other additive manufacturing machines ex, DLP, SLA, LOM,or SLS?
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I just overclocked the Melzi, used 400-turn stepper motors, cut out weight where I could, modded the frame and some of the plastic parts to be stiffer/align better, and used a .35 mm nozel, et cetera. But the print on my dA is from an experimental Lulzbot AO-100.
Mostly my lab works with ABS and PLA. There was some experimentation with polycarb but that's on the back burner until someone somewhere figures out how to get around the issues with fumes. Like I was planning on making a sinterer that uses a lens and sunlight to melt sand, similar to what was made a while back in Egypt. I've got fresnel plates but am waiting till summer to play around with that.
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Sounds like you have a nice setup.
Have you played around with constructing a heated build table and work envelope?
Checked out Lulzbot it looks to be a sturdy platform.
Out of curiosity to what issues with polycarb do you refer?
I will be interested to see the results of your sun sintering machine
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Heated build table? Actually I've done the opposite. Lots of plastics will warp insanely if you don't have a heated bed, but not PLA. As long as you're using PLA, you can switch out that expensive heated bed for a laser-cut plastic panel, roughed up on one side, covered in tape, or perhaps with a thin layer of dried PLA-acetone solution.
Polycarb releases some carbon monoxide when heated to it's glass transition. I think I was probably thinking of Polyvinyl Chloride though, which releases chlorine gas. Either one is pretty nasty to print with.
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what I meant is enclose and heat the build area in addition to heating the bed.
In regards to the Polyvinyl just enclose the machine in a sealed surround. The school I go to has a laser cutter that is enclosed and vented outside through a filter to address this problem when cutting these types of material.
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Well with PLA you don't really need a heated build area that much either, but it might be nice to try.
We've been playing around with a method of reacting the chlorine or carbon monoxide with something to sequester it. We can't just vent it outside since we're at ground-level and we'd be blowing it in people's faces. and even if we ran a hose up to the roof, I'd still rather not pollute with those chemicals unnecessarily.
I've noticed you're printing some ridiculous overhangs, are you using support material, or some other method to do that?
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I will look into playing around with PLA.
The facility were they are venting fumes outside is using a catalytic filter system to break down the gas. Then they run it through a filter before venting outside.
In regards to the support material I am using PVA since it is water soluble.
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Another reason I prefer PLA is that you can make it yourself out of corn starch, citric acid and a couple other things for $3 a kilo instead of $30 a kilo or more, and it's biodegradable, and a whole bunch of other cool things. Making your own means you have to extrude printing filament and that can be a technical challenge, but the vertical integration makes it worth it.
Glad to see that a filter is in place. That's pretty much the system our lab needs then.
Ooh multi-material printing! Fancy! Though I usually just use an easily-removable porous support structure of the same plastic I'm printing with, or just print without support structure and use a fan to cool the plastic quickly. Some of the printers in the lab can print INSANE horizontal overhangs without any trouble. One kid even printed a menger sponge and chain mail without any support material, and it worked.
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I have yet to look into making my own PLA. What equipment is needed to properly extrude it at a consistent diameter?
What model of printer can print without support material?
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As in the industry, to extrude it nicely you'll need a PID controller of some kind hooked up to an extruder. The open source community has been working on something similar recently: re-extruders for recycling plastic for prints. DIY stuff that matches the industrial-quality printing filament should be available eventually, but I can't say exactly when. I just know there are some folks in my school who have PID controllers and will be working on it soon.
Any printers run with the open-source Marlin software can be told to print without support material from Slicer, if you don't think you'll need it for a print. In fact Slicer does STL to Gcode exports without support material by default, unless you tell it not to.
I guess that's another thing about the open-source printers - they've got all the experimental features, and all the features the printing companies dismissed as impossible/useless.
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I will keep an eye on the communities progress on DIY extruding.
The REVOLUTION XL 3D PRINTER I ordered should be here at the end of the month. Once it arrives I will begin modification and we shall see what it can do.
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