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Description
Materials:

Body - minky, velboa, fleece, short-pile faux fur, non-stretch velour, or felt
Mane - felt, fleece or faux fur
Eyes - safety lock plastic eyes
Mouth, cutie mark - felt or embroidery
Stuffing - polyester fiberfill, plastic pellets (beanies)
Matching color thread

Instructions:

It is recommended you use lightweight iron-on (fusible) interfacing on your body fabric.

Print or trace the pattern pieces onto heavy cardstock. Trace around them onto the back (wrong side) of the fabric. No seam allowance is given - when you cut the pieces out, leave a 1/4 inch seam allowance.

Cut one each of the front/back head and belly gusset, two each of the ears, and two side heads and two side bodies, one mirrored. Don't cut out the darts yet. If you're using fabric with a pile (faux fur, minky or velour), the hairs of the material should point in the same direction as the arrow. If you're using fleece or felt you can ignore this.

Match the side bodies together, right (outer) sides together and sew from the back of the neck to B. Right sides together, match the belly gusset to the bodies and sew along the edge from A to B and back to A.

In the 'armpit' of the legs are oyster darts. Pinch them together along the center fold line and sew along the rim, then cut out the excess material. You can skip making the darts if you want your plushie to lay down.

Turn the body right side out through the neck opening.

Stuff the legs firmly with fiberfill, then the body loosely with a mix of beanies and fiberfill, then stuff the neck and chest area firmly with just fiberfill.

For the ears, fold the piece together on the dotted line (so D and D touch) and sew from D to the tip of the ear, leaving C-D open, and turn the ear right side out. Pin the ear to the right side of the front/back head, matching C and D.

Pin together the front/back and side heads (making sure the ears are on the inside so they'll be on the outside when the head is turned) matching E, F and G on the pieces. Sew, leaving F to G open to turn the head through.

Insert the safety lock eyes using the pattern as a rough guideline to placement. Stuff the head very firmly with fiberfill, using the blunt end of a pencil to pack it down tightly in all corners. Close the turning opening in the head with a ladder stitch.

Ladder stitch the head to the neck, pushing in more bits of stuffing before you finish to ensure the head isn't wobbly.

To make the mane and tail, cut layers of felt and attach to the head with a ladder stitch or strong, flexible glue such as E-6000.

For pegasus wings, cut out four teardrop shapes, two reverse. Sew together around the edges, then cut a small slit on the inside of the wing to turn it through. Stuff lightly, and take three long stitches to define the outline of the feathers. Ladder stitch to the body, hiding the turning opening.

For a unicorn, cut a conical horn from the body material and ladder stitch to the head.

Visual that may help: [link]

Finished plushies using this pattern: [link]

Description
Materials:

Body - minky, velboa, fleece, short-pile faux fur, non-stretch velour, or felt
Mane - felt, fleece or faux fur
Eyes - safety lock plastic eyes
Mouth, cutie mark - felt or embroidery
Stuffing - polyester fiberfill, plastic pellets (beanies)
Matching color thread

Instructions:

It is recommended you use lightweight iron-on (fusible) interfacing on your body fabric.

Print or trace the pattern pieces onto heavy cardstock. Trace around them onto the back (wrong side) of the fabric. No seam allowance is given - when you cut the pieces out, leave a 1/4 inch seam allowance.

Cut one each of the front/back head and belly gusset, two each of the ears, and two side heads and two side bodies, one mirrored. Don't cut out the darts yet. If you're using fabric with a pile (faux fur, minky or velour), the hairs of the material should point in the same direction as the arrow. If you're using fleece or felt you can ignore this.

Match the side bodies together, right (outer) sides together and sew from the back of the neck to B. Right sides together, match the belly gusset to the bodies and sew along the edge from A to B and back to A.

In the 'armpit' of the legs are oyster darts. Pinch them together along the center fold line and sew along the rim, then cut out the excess material. You can skip making the darts if you want your plushie to lay down.

Turn the body right side out through the neck opening.

Stuff the legs firmly with fiberfill, then the body loosely with a mix of beanies and fiberfill, then stuff the neck and chest area firmly with just fiberfill.

For the ears, fold the piece together on the dotted line (so D and D touch) and sew from D to the tip of the ear, leaving C-D open, and turn the ear right side out. Pin the ear to the right side of the front/back head, matching C and D.

Pin together the front/back and side heads (making sure the ears are on the inside so they'll be on the outside when the head is turned) matching E, F and G on the pieces. Sew, leaving F to G open to turn the head through.

Insert the safety lock eyes using the pattern as a rough guideline to placement. Stuff the head very firmly with fiberfill, using the blunt end of a pencil to pack it down tightly in all corners. Close the turning opening in the head with a ladder stitch.

Ladder stitch the head to the neck, pushing in more bits of stuffing before you finish to ensure the head isn't wobbly.

To make the mane and tail, cut layers of felt and attach to the head with a ladder stitch or strong, flexible glue such as E-6000.

For pegasus wings, cut out four teardrop shapes, two reverse. Sew together around the edges, then cut a small slit on the inside of the wing to turn it through. Stuff lightly, and take three long stitches to define the outline of the feathers. Ladder stitch to the body, hiding the turning opening.

For a unicorn, cut a conical horn from the body material and ladder stitch to the head.

Visual that may help: [link]

Finished plushies using this pattern: [link]