HOME | DD

ckp In reply to lokzaza [2014-02-07 10:18:14 +0000 UTC]

to answer your other q-s - and you might be surprised at one or two answers which has nothing to do with my intention!

-prussian blue, and these days raw umber are the colours I find easily manageable to use. Blue gives the entire range of negative feelings [to me] - like despair, depression, hopelessness, helplessness, etc. As the title says, they are trapped  so blue seemed alright with the theme. 

-water is NOT actually blue in the original. It is green, a bit of turquoise green. My camera refuses to catch that colour and shows blue instead!

- tiles are that way, again, going by the theme - want them to be under some sort of dome, so that .no escape' might be conveyed

- the middle person is not really hiding but more submerged in water than others and rather stunned at that - indicative of fate of others

hope that answers most of your questions!

thanks again for a close look.

👍: 0 ⏩: 1

lokzaza In reply to ckp [2014-02-08 21:13:30 +0000 UTC]

haha, cheers for the long reply -- my post was more of a rhetoric, train-of-thought view, but details about the process are always welcome.

in regards to colour accuracy on the camera: can you force the white balance(colour temperature) settings on it? even some mobile phone cameras get this functionality nowadays. Sadly, auto-calibrating a CMOS sensor to recognise a tone of white in a context is a strong technical challenge. Even conventional lightning tricks won't yield results if the camera software won't be convinced to drop the auto-adjust.

What I'm more concerned about is why do you say your name is in mud? Granted, we may all do mistakes but your work and background should speak more than whatever may have caused that? If anything, most of my friends have had a tendency to be a persona non-grata in certain circles. They would be boring otherwise.

👍: 0 ⏩: 1

ckp In reply to lokzaza [2014-02-09 11:22:11 +0000 UTC]

thanks

well, let me admit that I am an absolute idiot as far as any gadget handling goes. Camera is too sophisticated, I have problems even with washing machine and microwave.What I do is - I have set the camera to Natural light, that is No Flash mode.So even if I have to take photo of a painting on an average 25-30 times, the colours are more or less true and later on I do not have to adjust for brightness/gamma, etc. in IrfanView. My attempt and aim are to have the image without artificial lighting as true to original as possible. Sometimes I have to wait for days to get the correct light but I don't mind that compared to referring to the manual and trying out different settings, failig and getting confused and frustrated!

That said, I looked up the manual as per your suggestions but did not find  'white balance' anywhere. I have a fujifilm finepix s5700 camera. Only setting which might help looks like -changing colour setting from standard to chrome. This , they say will increase the contrast and saturation. Next time I'll try it and see if it makes any difference.

With this green I have problem, so too with purple - that also comes as blue in the image, sometimes it defeats the very purpose of using that paint. Anyway, thanks for the help.

As to 'my name being in mud' I said that in a lighter vein! Mostly people try to see something 'political' in any of my work. While as a piece like this doesn't have any political message! 

👍: 0 ⏩: 1

lokzaza In reply to ckp [2014-02-09 20:14:32 +0000 UTC]

yes, 'natural light' might be part of the settings i was referring to. They are also called 'white balance'. Might help to use a monopod, tripod or stack of books when attempting that, to reduce the number of repetitions.

White balance is different from contrast saturation. CMOS sensors are natively sensitive only to light intensity, and the wavelength(colour) responsivity matters. The colour is artificially created by imposing a grille on top. Then it's up to the software to decide how the colour white will look like. Incandescent light (2700K) has a deep orange hue, whereas 'daylight' tints everything towards bluish. Fluorescent (8500K) makes everything look like it went through a light electric blue filter.

If you're trying to see more greens, you may want to redshift the spectra in a way or another, which means that you could either adjust the camera to the orange-ist setting it has, or you can do an individual RGB channel curve gamma later if irfanview allows that. But it's better to do it closer to the source if possible.
This also implies that your computer screen has a minimal gamut level (usually linked to the gray-to-gray pixel contrast) so you could distinguish between the colours sufficiently as to not make matters worse.

👍: 0 ⏩: 2

ckp In reply to lokzaza [2014-02-10 08:14:27 +0000 UTC]

thanks a lot.

I'll keep on referring to this valuable help on and off as I am very bad at remembering technical tips.

I use tripod on a firm surface. What you say makes sense re daylight-blue. The camera is too sensitive for my comfort at times and the natural light has to be like when cloudy - not sunny at all. And actually, I got a new monitor just for this purpose. The old one was really old anyway and was showing everything dull with change in colours. One girl here on DA edited some 50-odd images and showed me though she has not seen any painting for original! That was an eye-opener. Though I have left monitor undisturbed , that is at factory settings only. 

👍: 0 ⏩: 1

lokzaza In reply to ckp [2014-02-11 01:18:32 +0000 UTC]

it's a complex problem like any other academic subject. If you have the time to experiment, one of the chief concerns is reproducibility. If you block foreign sources of light and provide your own (as a studio would), you could potentially eliminate faults. Amazon cardboard would do nicely to bar off windows if need be.

You may also consider experimenting with a fully-featured photo editor such as The Gimp (a crap/free Photoshop alternative), which ought to offer more powerful colour balancing/channel equalising options compared to Irfanview.

👍: 0 ⏩: 0

lokzaza In reply to lokzaza [2014-02-09 20:22:02 +0000 UTC]

responsivity is a non linear function.
www.thorlabschina.cn/images/Ta…
Silicon avalanche photodiode; in the case of a cmos sensor it will still be somewhat flat, but keep in mind that the camera isn't so adept as the human eye at distiguishing between green hues (500-550nm)

whereas your cone cell vision looks more like this:
asmartbear.wpengine.netdna-cdn…

👍: 0 ⏩: 0

ckp In reply to lokzaza [2014-02-07 09:58:21 +0000 UTC]

hi

nice to see you after ages!and thanks for compliments and detailed feed-back as always.

actually this painting, for a change does not have anything to do with politics, much less Indian politics. Problem is my name is in mud, so viewer tends to look for some political message when there is none!

I could explain the intention and what I want to convey thru the piece but perhaps you prefer your own reading.

anyway, keep in touch. 

👍: 0 ⏩: 0

ckp In reply to SilverWynd [2013-08-23 08:41:34 +0000 UTC]

Thanks

thanks for the fav too!

👍: 0 ⏩: 0

ckp In reply to crazygardener [2013-08-06 18:05:42 +0000 UTC]

thanks!

thanks for the fav too!!

👍: 0 ⏩: 1

crazygardener In reply to ckp [2013-08-07 10:12:40 +0000 UTC]

your welcome

my pleasure

👍: 0 ⏩: 0

ckp In reply to Mayeaux [2013-08-06 18:05:52 +0000 UTC]

thanks!

👍: 0 ⏩: 1

Mayeaux In reply to ckp [2013-08-08 17:02:10 +0000 UTC]

You're welcome!

👍: 0 ⏩: 0

ckp In reply to MeralSarioglu [2013-08-06 16:00:29 +0000 UTC]

thanks my dear

thanks for the fav as well!

👍: 0 ⏩: 0

ckp In reply to mrpity [2013-08-06 16:02:42 +0000 UTC]

Thanks!

👍: 0 ⏩: 0