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Published: 2011-07-25 23:28:01 +0000 UTC; Views: 213163; Favourites: 544; Downloads: 8065
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Description
This is an AR-15 papercraft, the third iteration of a long project that has undergone several stages.AR V3A31 M4 Carbine (PNG, 70 MB) Alternative link (Mediafire)
AR V3A31 M4 Carbine (PDF, 31 MB) Alternative link (Mediafire)
Most recent version, includes basic M4 components in multiple colors. Main Page.
AR Accessories (PNG, 62 MB) Alternative link (Mediafire)
AR Accessories (PDF, 31 MB) Alternative link (Mediafire)
Compilation of accessories and parts compatible with this version.
AR V3A416 (Hk416)
Related model, with some degree of compatibility.
FAQs:
1. What kind of paper does this use?
90lbs/185g
Letter or A4 size. Scale to printable area (don't try to print them at original image size, because they won't match).
2. Where is the previous V3 package?
Superseded by the V3A31 package, which improves on it in every way. Together with the accessories package, it include a large number of previous and updated parts.
3. What do the version numbers mean?
V1 & V2: Old versions, both handmade. The receivers, barrels, and magazines are unique and incompatible with anything else. Some accessories like sights can be interchanged with other versions. Handguards are also cross-compatible, because versions 1 through 3 use barrels with the same thick diameter. However, the design quality of versions 1 and 2 is very poor, so I don't recommend building them.
V3A2: Handmade V3 lower receiver that only accepts V2 (undersized) magazines.
V3: Current version, digitalized and generally better build quality, although with some notable weaknesses, such as the barrel and stock. If a receiver is labeled V3A3, that means it takes V3 magazines. However, there are some slight differences in V3 magazines, so some may fit better than others. V3 magwell has a retaining bar at the back that holds the magazine in place.
V3A416: Hk416 that uses V3 receiver measurements and magazine system. As the two-tone build shows, the receivers are cross-compatible. The main difference is the way the stock attaches (rear ring, buffer tube, and stock) and the way the barrel attaches (it goes into the upper receiver). The upper receiver also fits together better, but, being an Hk416 upper, it is taller only matches the Hk416 handguard. Overall, this is a much stronger model, but retains the unrealistic V3 magazine system.
V3A31: Same magwell and receiver dimensions, but improved buffer tube and barrel, and more realistic minor details. In short, it's an application of the lessons learned from the V3A416 model back to the standard M4 carbine configuration.
V4: Hypothetical next version, with realistic proportions and mag release. Although some of the current parts can be considered "V4" parts, I have barely started actually making a V4 receiver. The stock and barrel will attach similarly to the V3A416. There is no estimated release date.
Related content
Comments: 701
darkshooter23 In reply to ??? [2014-05-18 01:08:46 +0000 UTC]
im thinking of using the photoshop to crop one by one to make it look more like 1:1..can i do that??
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Hoborginc In reply to darkshooter23 [2014-05-18 01:20:03 +0000 UTC]
There shouldn't be any need to. Print the first page of the handguard and tell me what the length of the center core comes out to.Β If it's six inches, it's already correct.
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darkshooter23 In reply to Hoborginc [2014-05-18 01:32:12 +0000 UTC]
yep..its 6 inches...what should i do?
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Hoborginc In reply to darkshooter23 [2014-05-18 01:36:01 +0000 UTC]
The method you used to print it is good. Just use the same method to print everything else.
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darkshooter23 In reply to ??? [2014-05-17 06:19:39 +0000 UTC]
and...what type of paper did you use???
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Hoborginc In reply to darkshooter23 [2014-05-17 16:42:51 +0000 UTC]
Reasonably thick paper (90lb/185g) is best. I used Canson watercolor paper, cut down to fit the printer, but you have to make sure it's fairly flat watercolor paper. Avoid the rough ones.
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darkshooter23 In reply to Hoborginc [2014-05-18 01:07:40 +0000 UTC]
any watercolour paper will do right??cause i dont know if Canson watercolour paper is avaible in my country...
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Hoborginc In reply to darkshooter23 [2014-05-18 01:21:24 +0000 UTC]
The exact brand doesn't matter.
Check the smoothness of the paper. Some watercolor paper is too rough.
Also check the numbers on the packaging. It should be around 90lb or 185g, +/- 15 or so.
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darkshooter23 In reply to Hoborginc [2014-05-18 01:33:45 +0000 UTC]
is drawing paper will do??
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Hoborginc In reply to darkshooter23 [2014-05-18 01:36:42 +0000 UTC]
Yep, it's fine.
As long as it's thicker than regular printer paper, and thinner than bristol paper, it should be good.
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darkshooter23 In reply to ??? [2014-05-16 12:24:17 +0000 UTC]
ohh,and almost forgot..when i scale it to A4 it become oversize the paper...
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darkshooter23 In reply to ??? [2014-05-16 10:47:08 +0000 UTC]
hey hobo..i have some problem..when i print those..it seems to be a little bit smaller...what should i do??please reply me ASAP!!!
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Hoborginc In reply to darkshooter23 [2014-05-16 16:54:33 +0000 UTC]
Regardless of the file size (Which is a bit larger than printable area), the actual size of the printed area should be 8"x10.33" (20.4x26.3 cm). That's the way the test builds have been made, and that's what the proportions are designed around.
If you're printing with Windows Photo Viewer, uncheck "fit picture to frame."
The image should be automatically shrunk down to the correct size.
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darkshooter23 In reply to Hoborginc [2014-05-16 23:54:24 +0000 UTC]
oh..btw..does it scale to real size?
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Hoborginc In reply to darkshooter23 [2014-05-17 00:25:46 +0000 UTC]
It's very close to 1:1, although some proportions are different (barrel is slightly thicker, receiver is wider, etc.).
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darkshooter23 In reply to Hoborginc [2014-05-17 05:52:29 +0000 UTC]
can you tell me how or what method did you use to print these??
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Hoborginc In reply to darkshooter23 [2014-05-17 16:50:53 +0000 UTC]
I open them in ArcSoft Photo Studio and just print from there, but it's mostly out of familiarity.
The result is the same when printed from Windows Photo Viewer or other software, as long as you restrict the image to the printable area.
The one thing to keep in mind however, is to print all parts the exact same way, so that they will fit together.
If you're unsure whether it's right or not, build the lower receiver and measure its length. It should be 7.5" long. The upper receiver should be 7" long.
Or if you want to measure without building, check the handguard, which should be 6", or the cheekplate of the CTR stock, which should be just under 5.75".
Are you having difficulty with printing?
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darkshooter23 In reply to Hoborginc [2014-05-18 00:50:21 +0000 UTC]
yes..i am..im thinking to crop one by one...then i resize it and print it to make it looks like 1:1
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darkshooter23 In reply to Hoborginc [2014-05-16 23:07:47 +0000 UTC]
Thanks dude....a lot... ^^
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Hoborginc In reply to darkshooter23 [2014-05-16 23:24:23 +0000 UTC]
No problem. Let me know if you need anything else.
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brambram6 In reply to ??? [2014-05-14 09:54:25 +0000 UTC]
Lm kinda new to this and l might sound like a noob but... is this DIY ???
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Hoborginc In reply to brambram6 [2014-05-14 17:10:11 +0000 UTC]
Yes. The package contains png printouts, which should be printed on reasonably thick paper (90lb/185g).
You can pick your own parts (the main package has barrels of different lengths, for example) or use the specific builds, which include only the parts for a specific configuration.
Each part is made of smaller pieces. Score the fold lines, cut it out, fold it, and glue it together (regular paper glue is fine).
The printouts have various colors, but there are also blank versions if you want to paint it yourself.
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Awesomechan3 In reply to ??? [2014-05-11 14:45:46 +0000 UTC]
Which barrel length did you use?
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Hoborginc In reply to Awesomechan3 [2014-05-11 17:33:05 +0000 UTC]
This is the shortest one, 11.5"
For reference, the carbine-length handguard is 6" long.
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Awesomechan3 In reply to Hoborginc [2014-05-12 15:05:04 +0000 UTC]
the 1st page of all 4 barrel kinda the same
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deshooter135 In reply to ??? [2014-05-10 01:21:07 +0000 UTC]
Hey, I find this oh so very cool, but I have a suggestion: Is it possible to make fake paper 5.56x45 NATO cartridges to put in the magazines and chamber?
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Hoborginc In reply to deshooter135 [2014-05-10 03:12:20 +0000 UTC]
Well, this particular model doesn't have a chamber, and the magazine doesn't have an interior for the cartridge to fit in, and the bolt face isn't fully detailed. However, if you wanted to do some original modifications, I suppose it's possible to use this model as a basis for something more complex.
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deshooter135 In reply to Hoborginc [2014-05-10 23:50:46 +0000 UTC]
Hmm.... looks like I need to do some research into the AR-15 mechanism
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Bobsfog In reply to ??? [2014-04-28 19:07:01 +0000 UTC]
excellent, very good attention to details
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ancajelek [2014-03-23 18:25:09 +0000 UTC]
i was trying to build m110 from this gun part with plastic and pipes..
but i can't find the side guard in the vertical foregrip pict..
can you send me the file please..?
here is my email..
ancajelek@gmail.com
thanks..
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ThomasIsAwesome In reply to ??? [2014-03-20 13:30:22 +0000 UTC]
Do you have any pictures of the interior of the lower receiver? I'm a bit confused as to where parts should go.
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Hoborginc In reply to ThomasIsAwesome [2014-03-21 01:42:34 +0000 UTC]
Here's a quick illustration of how it's arranged. Otherwise, it's just a matter of following the wavy hatched areas.
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TankerChu In reply to ??? [2014-02-24 08:11:09 +0000 UTC]
Can you send me the tan version?
My email is TankerChu@gmail.com
Can you make a holographic scopes???
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TankerChu In reply to TankerChu [2014-03-11 15:14:48 +0000 UTC]
hey manΒ
If you don't mind, can you resend me the polymer mag in white color
thanks
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ThisIsANerd In reply to ??? [2014-02-22 23:57:53 +0000 UTC]
What type of paper did you use for the photographed models?
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Hoborginc In reply to ThisIsANerd [2014-02-23 02:38:11 +0000 UTC]
90lb (185g) Canson watercolor paper (it comes in 9x12", but I cut it down to 8.5x11"). It may not be optimal, but it's what I'm used to.
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ThisIsANerd In reply to ThisIsANerd [2014-02-23 00:01:06 +0000 UTC]
By the way, I only have 80g paper (office paper) will it work? (I just want to know because I don't want to buy 500 sheets of 185g paper and not use most of them...)
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thaipham101 In reply to ??? [2014-02-07 19:37:08 +0000 UTC]
Can you send me the Tan version?
my email is boy_aloner101@yahoo.com.vnΒ
Thank you very much.
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Hoborginc In reply to thaipham101 [2014-02-07 21:57:45 +0000 UTC]
Is there any specific configuration you want?
Otherwise I'll just send the standard: 14.5" barrel, carbine-length RIS handguard, CTR stock, polymer magazine, and flip-up sights.
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thaipham101 In reply to Hoborginc [2014-02-08 02:55:36 +0000 UTC]
oh, I mean the M4 with fore grip, red dot sight. Is there any scope in tan?
which size of paper should I use?
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Vincentmrl In reply to ??? [2014-02-04 13:47:21 +0000 UTC]
Hey, after a while I finally continued building that gun, and I got a question: is there any way to strengthen the part where the barrel and the upper receiver join? I already glued these and it feels easy to break these 2 parts when holding it (the barrel handle is heavy).Β
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Hoborginc In reply to Vincentmrl [2014-02-04 15:06:22 +0000 UTC]
You're right, the barrel well is one of the known weak points I plan address in the next iteration.
As far as strengthening it on the V3, one way to do it is to hollow out the front of the upper and the back of the barrel and to make a 2-inch long tube (preferably 2 layers, internally reinforced like the barrel), glue it inside the back of the barrel, and glue it inside the upper, extending to where the ejection port ends. This will at least create some overlap to prevent the barrel from coming off so easily.
Also, it's possible to stick something between the upper bottom edge of the delta ring, just a little piece slightly less than a quarter inch wide.
Then, of course, put some extra glue on all the parts that touch, just to get some more surface holding them together.
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Vincentmrl In reply to Hoborginc [2014-02-06 23:14:43 +0000 UTC]
It feels sturdier now, it was half me thinking it was weaker than what it is and half the model being really weaker. I added paper strips on the external covered by handle part of the barrel to reinforce the different pieces joining, and it feels way sturdier now. Now I'm building the CTR stock and I'm not having problems with that right now, I'm just a bit bored by the rectangular reinforcements
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xaotherion In reply to ??? [2014-02-02 00:19:21 +0000 UTC]
Alright, the works are starting out slowly.
There's something about the barrel I don't understand. I want this type of handguard as in the picture. Is the barrel supposed to be glued inside it, or removable?
The barrel well seems to be just a few millimeters more narrow, than the barrel base & signpost parts. Is it meant to be that way? And does it mean the assembled barrel is supposed to be pushed into the well by force, and be stabilized there in position by friction on the barrel well walls?
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Hoborginc In reply to xaotherion [2014-02-02 01:09:28 +0000 UTC]
The barrel is supposed to be glued to the receiver first. Then the handguard is attached over it.
It is supposed to be a snug fit. Put some glue in first, then get the barrel in place (if it's too wide, make some bends along its diameter, just to get it started), and make sure it's aligned straight as it dries.
Considering how much surface area is in contact, the barrel should be very well attached to the barrel well. The problem is that the barrel well isn't very firmly attached to the receiver, so if you can reinforce it somehow, that would help keep the overall structure sturdy.
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xaotherion In reply to Hoborginc [2014-02-18 22:46:16 +0000 UTC]
About the lower receiver: where precisely does the "Inner Hook" (on page 2) go?
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Hoborginc In reply to xaotherion [2014-02-18 23:38:34 +0000 UTC]
It goes inside the magwell, on the horizontal wavy hatched area of the magwell rear panel. Unrealistic, I know, but it's a simple way of keeping the magazine in.
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vader543 In reply to ??? [2014-01-29 17:09:56 +0000 UTC]
I would ride the all black m16 you have a hint of what pessa gets better and let the pieces all black
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