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Hoborginc β Modular Paper AR15 V3
Published: 2011-07-25 23:28:01 +0000 UTC; Views: 213170; Favourites: 544; Downloads: 8065
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Description
This is an AR-15 papercraft, the third iteration of a long project that has undergone several stages.AR V3A31 M4 Carbine (PNG, 70 MB) Alternative link (Mediafire)
AR V3A31 M4 Carbine (PDF, 31 MB) Alternative link (Mediafire)
Most recent version, includes basic M4 components in multiple colors. Main Page.
AR Accessories (PNG, 62 MB) Alternative link (Mediafire)
AR Accessories (PDF, 31 MB) Alternative link (Mediafire)
Compilation of accessories and parts compatible with this version.
AR V3A416 (Hk416)
Related model, with some degree of compatibility.
FAQs:
1. What kind of paper does this use?
90lbs/185g
Letter or A4 size. Scale to printable area (don't try to print them at original image size, because they won't match).
2. Where is the previous V3 package?
Superseded by the V3A31 package, which improves on it in every way. Together with the accessories package, it include a large number of previous and updated parts.
3. What do the version numbers mean?
V1 & V2: Old versions, both handmade. The receivers, barrels, and magazines are unique and incompatible with anything else. Some accessories like sights can be interchanged with other versions. Handguards are also cross-compatible, because versions 1 through 3 use barrels with the same thick diameter. However, the design quality of versions 1 and 2 is very poor, so I don't recommend building them.
V3A2: Handmade V3 lower receiver that only accepts V2 (undersized) magazines.
V3: Current version, digitalized and generally better build quality, although with some notable weaknesses, such as the barrel and stock. If a receiver is labeled V3A3, that means it takes V3 magazines. However, there are some slight differences in V3 magazines, so some may fit better than others. V3 magwell has a retaining bar at the back that holds the magazine in place.
V3A416: Hk416 that uses V3 receiver measurements and magazine system. As the two-tone build shows, the receivers are cross-compatible. The main difference is the way the stock attaches (rear ring, buffer tube, and stock) and the way the barrel attaches (it goes into the upper receiver). The upper receiver also fits together better, but, being an Hk416 upper, it is taller only matches the Hk416 handguard. Overall, this is a much stronger model, but retains the unrealistic V3 magazine system.
V3A31: Same magwell and receiver dimensions, but improved buffer tube and barrel, and more realistic minor details. In short, it's an application of the lessons learned from the V3A416 model back to the standard M4 carbine configuration.
V4: Hypothetical next version, with realistic proportions and mag release. Although some of the current parts can be considered "V4" parts, I have barely started actually making a V4 receiver. The stock and barrel will attach similarly to the V3A416. There is no estimated release date.
Related content
Comments: 701
Here, I've packaged together the files for a black M16A4 configuration.
However, keep in mind that printing in black makes these pieces especially vulnerable to deformation, so be careful, use small amounts of glue, and make sure everything dries thoroughly.
Also, make sure that your paper is reasonably thick 90 lb (185 g). Regular printer paper is too thin for this model.
The barrel is 20" and the stock is an M16 stock.
You have two options for the rear sights: either a carry handle OR a combination of Scope + Backup Ironsights. I've included both.
To make the rifle-length handguard, make two regular (6" carbine-length) handguards and put them together.
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muito obrigado.
Gostei muito seus modelos sΓ£o o melhor que eu encontrei atΓ© agora.
ja pensar em fazer um rifle sniper?
mantΓͺ-lo
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Agora eu tenho vΓ‘rios novos fuzis de assalto planejado, por isso nΓ£o hΓ‘ rifle sniper em desenvolvimento. No entanto, a possibilidade estΓ‘ sempre lΓ‘.
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thank you very much
Enjoyed their models were the best I found so far.
now think about setting up a sniper rifle?
if I get the odd comment because I used the google translator
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waiting for new models
Where I live just thought paper 120g 180g just for the certificate then chose the 120g
ve only subisituir RIS3 handguard for M4 file that I send thank you once again.
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i hawe one questions do You planed create underbarrel granade luncher? m203 orΒ EGLM .
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i hawe one questions do You planed create underbarrel granade luncher? m203 orΒ EGLM .
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i hawe one questions do You planed create underbarrel granade luncher? m203 orΒ EGLM .
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I don't have an M203 planned, in part because the ribs would be more trouble than they're worth, and in part because the barrel well is a weak point and I don't want to put too much weight on the front. Once I've redesigned the barrel, more opportunities will be open.
However, I'm considering making a GP-25 for the AK eventually.
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thx i wait or maybe i some create if i can
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I really have to try one of your weapons out some time, but I still have a one third done Starcraft 2 paper space marine rifle sitting around... >.<
Also, do the mechanisms of the weapons really work? Like the magazine, does it snap to the weapon and can be released the same way as in reality?
And I read you don't take requests, but I wonder if you will ever make a HK-416? I love that thing...
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On second thought, I may be making some V3-compatible Hk416 parts to test out some design features.
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Oh wow that would be... incredible!
Just don't rush it, take your time. I still have lots of other work to do before I wil start this, also I want to make one of your pistols first to get used to it.
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No, the mechanisms are simplified, although their level of detail varies between models.
On this [V3] version of the AR, the magazine is held in place by a retention bar at the back of the magwell. The only way to release it is by pulling really hard. I've started working on a new version, though, with a realistic mag catch and some other components modeled in more detail.
Let me make the V4 AR first, and then designing an Hk416 based on it will be easier.
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and also ive been having troble folding the paper smoothly , any techuniques i can use ?
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What I do is score the fold lines beforehand, using the point of a pair of scissors along the edge of a ruler. It's not as sharp as an x-acto knife, so it doesn't actually penetrate the paper, it just indents it very precisely so that it will naturally fold along those lines. The x-acto knife is good for cutting very small parts, though.
For curved sections, I'll lightly rub it on the edge of the table so it starts getting a curved shape. This thick paper doesn't do tight curves perfectly, however.
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i also wanted to mention that you should try making a PM LMG or shotgunΒ
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is hot glue a good glue to use , if not can you recommend glue to use
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I just use ordinary Elmer's glue. It's cheap and easy to find, and I don't think anything more sophisticated is necessary for this kind of project.
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and.. can u show me the assembling of the 16" barrel too 
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The rearmost section of the barrel is the thick one with red text. It's distinguished by a hatched band around it, which should be oriented as close to the back as possible. This is where the barrel nut will go.
The foremost section of the barrel is the thin one with purple text, appearing on the "Barrel Ends" page. It's distinguished by spiral threads and a black hole.
Everything in between simply alternates between thick and thin. Just make sure they're lined up straight and they dry fully, and you should be fine.
The only difference between the barrel lengths is how many segments they have and how long the segments are. Each page has a colored diagram on the upper right side. It shows the order in which the segments are put together.
If you're wondering about the internal supports, refer to the image "assembly of barrel." The first two supports (single rectangle with tabs) form a double-layer center rib, while the other two supports (double rectangles with tabs) form the triangular ribs. When you put them together, it forms a square structure.
Muzzle devices (birdcage OR three-prong flash hider) simply go over the purple-titled "threaded muzzle" component, which is concealed completely.
For the back end of the barrel, the "barrel nut" is a simple ring that goes on the hatched section of the rearmost segment. The "interlocking lug faces" are semicircular parts that attach to the barrel nut, but make sure to leave some space between them and the cylindrical part of the barrel. The barrel goes inside the barrel well of the upper receiver, while the interlocking lug faces go outside it. Then, the delta ring covers that whole area up. It's positioned at a short distance from the upper receiver, just enough that the gas tube is visible. Once the barrel is in place, you can attach the handguard.
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errr.., can you show me more clearly about Β assembling the upper receiver with the m4 handguard ? Β your instruction image seem like there are some little rings between them and the delta ring. it would be better if u combine your instruction with some images.
thank you !
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The round M4 handguard was part of the old V2 build, and the old delta ring had a different configuration. It was composed of several cylinders, with a small one at the front.
Since the new delta ring is a single straight cylinder, there should be no space between it and the handguard.
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so you meant that the new version just needs a single ring? thx you, im clear now
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Hey man, love your work! Is there a possibility of getting the white version? Gonna print it on colored paper!
ltla9000311(at)gmail(dot)com
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There are white files in the regular package, but since the whole thing is rather large, I can send you a custom package with just white patterns (together with instruction photos etc.) I'm putting in the polymer magazine and railed handguard by default, but there are some other parts which you can choose from:
Do you want an 11.5", 14.5", 16", or 20" barrel?
Would you rather have the simple M16 stock or the adjustable CTR stock?
The sights are unfortunately all handmade. Here are your options:
Front: Triangular front sight, barrel-mounted flip-up sight, or rail-mounted flip-up sight.
Rear: A1 carry handle, A3 carry handle, fixed rear sight, flip-up rear sight, and/or Aimpoint scope.
Also let me know if you want any older, handmade parts, such as the M4 stock, round M4 handguard, suppressor, or vertical foregrip.
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Damn, so many options!
11.5" barrel
Adjustable stock
Rail mounted flip-up sight
Aimpoint scope
Suppressor
Thank you , I really appreciate it!
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All right, here's the package (11.7mb). Should contain everything. Let me know if you need anything else.
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Thanks my friend. I hope to be able to get started on it soon. The wife and I are expecting a new baby soon, so my work area is kinda gone right now. BUT, I really appreciate you sending this to me!
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I was wondering you could somehow make a compatible windowed pmagΒ
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All right, windowed PMAG is done. Here's the new package with both variants.
The regular one is pretty straightforward. It has a rectangular piece for internal support. The windowed version has little cartridge stubs and a follower attached to this internal support, so they're visible through the window.
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First of all, the windowless version.
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No problem. I've started working on a windowless PMAG. The test build is complete, and everything looks fine. Starting color build.
I'll make a windowed version too. There's a pretty straightforward way of doing it.
It will have an unrealistic rear hook like the old mags, but I've changed the angle so it'll be smoother. The top will be rather featureless, though, to prevent interference with the bolt.
Also, I've noticed that the regular mag's tapered top and cutout at the back corner, inherited from the V2, are unnecessary, so there will probably be new and improved GI mags forthcoming too.
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hey you got a download for a triangular front sight?Β
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Here's a download of just the front sight pages by themselves.
Keep in mind, though, that this one is handmade and hasn't been redesigned yet, so it may be a bit crude.
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Sir, Do you have this in .pdo format? That is the format for pepakura viewer. I am a special forces Soldier and this would be awesome on my wall in my office. However, the .pdo format is the only method I know of getting my paper cutter machine to cut it out automatically. Thanks in advance.
Β
Jessie
Founder of
FirstSergeant.com
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Unfortunately, the method used to make these particular models does not involve digital 3d modeling, so there is no file that can be imported into pepakura. They are made directly as 2d vector images (svg, editable in Inkscape).
Fortunately, it should be possible to make the .svg files cuttable. If you can provide any details about the model of your paper cutter and/or the software associated with it, I can figure out how to customize the svg's for it.
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That would be awesome! Its the cameo silhouette. It comes with its own software but I use Pepakura designer and it allows me to directly import svg files. If you want to send me the files I can reposition the files in pepakura for cutting then send you the .pdo files for others to use.
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Let's test it out with a simple component, like the magazine. It's two pages, and consists of an outer shell, three cubes for internal support, a curved rear ridge, and a small triangular piece on the back which (unrealistically) locks it in the magwell.
This package includes:
1. Original svg's, where everything is editable.
2. Png's.
3. Svg's where most details have been merged into a background, and new paths have been added to mark the cut lines.
4. Svg's where additional paths have been added to mark the fold lines. They're dotted, but I'm not sure whether this will work.
Let me know which are the most useful, or if there's something that should be done differently, and I'll start customizing the other pages.
Also, any preferences for colors and parts selection?
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Your awesome! I am at work right now but will be home later to try this out, will let you know. Thanks again.
Jessie
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i heard that there was a M203 launcher in the download... couldn't find it :/
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It's not included in this package because its level of quality is inconsistent with the other parts.
What I mean is it's not very good, so you're not missing out on anything worthwhile.
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aww damn, sound really cool tho. never mind
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Hey i just assembled the upper and lower reciever in black and they dont fit. The upper reciever is shorter and doesnt line up with the pin and pivot holes. D you know what coud be wrong? Maybe i screwed up or is there something wrong with the files?
P.S. On the construction pics it looks like you have the lower reciever v2 instead of v3.
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The lowers that appear in the pictures are the V3A3 (tan), the V3A2 (black), and V2 (gray). They are all cross-compatible with the V2 and V3 uppers. (I'm attaching and reattaching them right now and they fit, although, to be fair, an older build naturally has looser tolerances from flexing and "erosion")
I remember the prototype lower used to be longer than normal, but I don't think this difference has persisted to the colored versions of the file, because this specific problem hasn't been reported before.
What are the measured lengths of your upper and lower? The lower should be 19-19.2 cm and the upper should be 18 cm. The distance between the centers of the holes should be around 16cm. If their sizes are wrong, it could have been printed to a different scale. It could also be a case of tolerance stacking if the paper is really thick (though if the bottom protrusions on the upper can fit between the walls of the lower, this shouldn't be the problem).
How substantial is the difference? Is there a gap between the curved sections at the back?
If the holes are just a couple of millemeters off, it's possible to just expand them until the pins fit. Otherwise, it's possible to edit the file: shorten the side walls and the bottom wall of the lower on page 2. Finally, there's the rather crude possibility of cutting the narrow part of the lower around where joins the wide part, cutting a few millemeters off the end of the narrow part (or folding it in) and gluing it back together, although it won't look too pretty.
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Well I figured it out 
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You just saved a couple friends of mine from a potential meltdown in terms of a cosplay group!
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is there any instruction to build this???
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There are text files labeled "notes," and the parts are usually descriptively labeled. Other than that it's pretty intuitive.
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