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Description
“Surfer Insanity”

From shorelines paved with sands so white
they watch and wait for the perfect one.
It’s not worth the effort if it isn’t just right,
and there’s more to it than just having fun.
It’s the thrill of the chase, the high of the ride,
sharing the waters with creatures to fear.
Out in the open with no where to hide,
and the closest oasis far from near.
Yet still they paddle their boards out to sea
and wait for the curl while holding their breath.
When the moment approaches, they ride, flying free!
Each crest of the breaker a challenge to death.

This was written in 1993. Having never given surfing a try (I saw Jaws when I was young and easily scared spitless), I can't say if this is how it is for a surfer...but it sounded good to me.

I may not brave the surf, but I love to watch...I wish I was able to sit on the beach more often. Unfortunately the only beach around here is a lake beach.

*manaphoto was kind enough to allow me the use of his photo. If you want to see some really wicked surf shots, pay his gallery a visit. You won't be sorry.
Aloha, Jeff. Thanks again.

Description
“Surfer Insanity”

From shorelines paved with sands so white
they watch and wait for the perfect one.
It’s not worth the effort if it isn’t just right,
and there’s more to it than just having fun.
It’s the thrill of the chase, the high of the ride,
sharing the waters with creatures to fear.
Out in the open with no where to hide,
and the closest oasis far from near.
Yet still they paddle their boards out to sea
and wait for the curl while holding their breath.
When the moment approaches, they ride, flying free!
Each crest of the breaker a challenge to death.

This was written in 1993. Having never given surfing a try (I saw Jaws when I was young and easily scared spitless), I can't say if this is how it is for a surfer...but it sounded good to me.

I may not brave the surf, but I love to watch...I wish I was able to sit on the beach more often. Unfortunately the only beach around here is a lake beach.

*manaphoto was kind enough to allow me the use of his photo. If you want to see some really wicked surf shots, pay his gallery a visit. You won't be sorry.
Aloha, Jeff. Thanks again.