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Qarrezel — Mask Making Demo Part B
Published: 2008-11-06 15:00:14 +0000 UTC; Views: 65253; Favourites: 668; Downloads: 0
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Description
An overview to explain how we mold and cast our mask bases.WEAR CHEMICAL RESISTANT GLOVES, A RESPIRATOR, AND PROTECTIVE CLOTHING!
I'll say it again:
WEAR CHEMICAL RESISTANT GLOVES, A RESPIRATOR, AND PROTECTIVE CLOTHING!
DO NOT DO THIS NEAR FOOD SURFACES! DO NOT EAT OR DRINK NEAR YOUR WORK AREA! DO NOT HANDLE OR USE THESE CHEMICALS NEAR CHILDREN OR PETS!
If I see anyone else blatantly ignoring basic safety precautions, I absolutely will take this tutorial down.
PLEASE READ the whole description! It explains all the steps, lists materials used here, and links to smooth-on.com where I buy my rubbers and resins.
I WILL NOT answer any questions the answers to which are in the descriptions or can easily be answered with a visit to smooth-on's website (or even a quick google search). I will also not detail this process further.
Description of steps:
9.) I am using plaster bandage* to make the mothermold (also called a matrix or support shell). I moisten several long strips (probably about half a roll or more) and start applying them to the mask surface at the edges.
10.) The mothermold is done in two halves. I build up a ridge in the middle where the two halves wil meet.
11.) The first side is completed, smoothed out, and left to fully set.
12.) I apply a strip of aluminum foil to the ridge that I built up on the first half of the mothermold. This will help separate the two halves later.
13.) The second half of the mothermold is applied same as the first.
14.) Once both halves are set (and preferably completely dry), they are gently pried apart and removed.
15.) And finally, the silicone is removed from the model, nested in the mothermold (the two halves of which are held together with a rubber band), and the mold is ready for casting. Notice that the original model has remained completely undamaged.
CONTINUED:
Part A: [link] Part C: [link]
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* not necessarily everyone's mothermold material of choice. I like it because it's fast, lightweight, and fairly inexpensive. However, it's far less durable than Gypsum cement, like Ultracal. Again, though, with my high mold turnover rate anyway, I don't like to invest too much in these, and the weight of gypsum really bothers me. For a very durable mold, I would recommend a thick Gypsum mothermold.
To cut down on durability issues, though, I never use the craft grade bandages, always medical grade.
Materials used here:
Medical grade plaster bandages
Aluminum foil
To learn more about the materials I'm using, and to learn more about mold making and casting basics, visit Smooth-On.com: [link]
Related content
Comments: 64
Thank you so much for sharing such a thorough tut!
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i have a question. how do you avoid that the final piece doesn't get stuck in the mold? is that why you make a layer of silicone? so that it's more flexible and lets the catchy shapes get out?
or do you just avoid making any complicated turns in the shapes?
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I've never done this personally, but I've seen it done. The mother mold comes off in two, then as you said the silicon is flexible. You can even turn it inside out (as long as you're careful with it, don't go ripping away XD, also dependent on how thick your rubber layer is), but yeah you've got the right idea.
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Would it be okay to use a sealant on the plaster mother mold to keep plaster from flaking off?
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is this plaster bandage Gypsona? or wouldyou reccommend it? im not sure if you have used it or even know what is so sorry if im botherin you XD
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I was wondering..if I want to do only one mold...is the trial size big enough? [link]
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Looking amazing. I'm attempting to do something like this....can you use Plasti-paste as the mother mold? I hope I got the right stuff. This is my first time doing it.
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im a mask maker myself (sorry if you wanted an answer from Q) Plasti-paste works for mothermolds. when used to make masks she used it so thats how i definately know its the right stuff.
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whats the purpose of the mothermold? i dont get it o.o
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It surrounds the rubber compound and hardens to keep the shape so you make sure your mask is cast correctly. ; So it doesn't wabble around while your casting the resin. Otherwise your mask would be disproportionate.
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oooooo o.o i didnt know that X-3 cool
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Hello Qarrezel! I have a question...
Are keys necessary if you're using rebound 25? Because, When I tried to attach some clay keys they wouldn't stay. D:; So I continued on without them. Is this bad, will it ruin my mold? I'm just a casting newb.
Also, how long does it take for each half of the mothermold to set?
Thanks a lot!
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I just tried using cubes of styrofoam, the type when you package frozen foods
it works great too
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They are very, very helpful, but it won't ruin your mold to not have them. Apply an extra couple layers of silicone so that the mold holds its shape better.
Rebound should fuse to itself though. Did you apply rebound pieces directly to the still uncured rebound surface?
How long it takes for your plaster mothermold to set up depends on your plaster bandages (brand, age), water temperature, ambient temperature, and thickness of the overall layup. You can make them set faster by increasing temperatures.
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Hi there,
I'd like to make this mask and wonder if you could give me a comprhensive material list for the mask featured in the tutorial above?
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All the major materials are listed or pictured already. The only other things you need are basic mold-making and casting supplies.
You can find everything you need here: [link]
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my question is would you still take the same steps with the birds like tierny or tawny? cause that just makes my head hurt trying to think that through at the moment XD
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I have a question...what is your head base made of and where did you get it??
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Gypsum - I cast it myself from a mold of my head.
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Hi, nice to meet you Qarrazel! Can I ask a question? I am looking to make a mask using fastcast resin. Could I use the slush method using this medium and would the resin bond to previous layers okay if I slushed several times?
Many thanks for any help given and keep up the great work! doctornumber4
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Yes, the resin should fuse to itself.
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Many thanks for that. Muchly appreciated!
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So, curious, does the same casting stuff used to make belly casts (like pregnant bellies) does that stuff work? I think its made out of simple lifecast material like Alja-Safe alginate and Body Double silicone (as it says on the Smooth-On website.
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You can use just about any silicone, but don't use alginate. Alginate is a temporary gel-like mold material which can only be used once, and is only suitable for casting plaster into. Resins will foam and do awful things if cast into alginate, since the alginate remains wet.
I think the lifecasting silicones are a little more expensive than OOMOO and some of the others, so there's probably better choices anyhow.
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Ok, thank you so much for answering all my questions! You are such a sweety. ^_^
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Instead of useing plaster bandage, could I use air dry clay?
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Experiment and find out. Maybe if your clay is a hard enough variety, you'll just end up spending way too much on a mothermold.
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Hi i;ve been using your tutorial for references for making my mask. I have just bought some clear casting resin by Tiranti [link] 
And i was wondering have i wasted my money because i wont be able to wear it. Or would i have to make a balaclava mask to put over it??? Its just i live in the UK so i cannot buy smooth cast's stuff =[
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Hmm, I get an error message when I try to load that page, but as the URL says "polester resin", it's probably not good to use. The polyester outgasses too much to put up against your face at all.
I'm not sure what to tell you to get, since I don't know of any UK suppliers. However, if you join up on this forum: [link] and ask about suppliers of two-part polyurethane resin in the UK, I bet someone will be able to help you out. You can link to my tutorial so that they understand your application.
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Thanks ill have a go, I looked on the site and it did have a health and safety sheet for it, but only for when it is in liquid form, its says it is an irritant and that if it is ingested i should call a doctor immidiately.
However I did the other day also buy some white fast cast resin, I just looked at it again and it says that it is a polyurethane resin. So i think i will use this for the cast of the mask and use the other resin for my eyes instead. Thanks for your advice though
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Ignore the link cuz it doesn;t work =[
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I have to ask-- how do you get the rubber to stay in the mothermold? I tried recently and mine just flopped around and completely deflated when I tried to pour resin in. Haha, I think I missed something between here and the Smooth-On tutorials!
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That's what the keys are for - they lock the rubber into the hard mold. You may also want to apply another layer or two of rubber if it's really floppy - added thickness gives it enough structural integrity to stay in place. I'd say you want it no thinner than 1/8".
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Hm, all right. I'm guessing my keys weren't big enough. I think I'll thicken everything up a bit next time-- keys, rubber, plaster. Thanks!
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Sounds good - and make sure to really push the plaster against the keys so that they fit in there snugly.
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You are just so unbelievably helpul, thank you!
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What about clear casting resin? Could a person use that?
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Clear casting resins can be hell, especially if you want a bubble-free glass-look. If you want a bubble-free casting, you need to vacuum-degas it, and preferably allow it to cure in a pressure chamber. In that case, slush-casting may be impossible, since it would probably work bubbles back into the mix, and there would be no way to pressure cure it. If you just wanted it pretty clear and didn't care that it would be all full of tiny bubbles, then by all means.
Oh, you also want something with a cure time of under 30 minutes for slush casting, otherwise you'll be there all day. Many clear resins take a long time, so that would be something to look out for.
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I'm not worried about the bubbles since there'll be fur over it any ways.
Even if it is a thin layer?
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Ah, ok. What brand of resin are you looking to use? That may be the best way for me to offer advice.
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Um, it's Cast'n craft, I think.
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Ah, I was afraid of that. You can't use that to make a mask blank. Getting it to cure all the way is beyond hell, and it often doesn't get hard enough to support itself in a shell structure. Most importantly it's a polyester resin, so the fumes are horribly toxic, even after it's cured - you absolutely can not put that stuff near your face. You need an epoxy or preferably a polyurethane resin that sets up in under 30 minutes.
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polyurethane, got it. Thank you!
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