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Published: 2007-01-13 21:31:27 +0000 UTC; Views: 19301; Favourites: 131; Downloads: 692
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Description
So this is not really a tutorial but i just wanted to show you how you have to take pictures so you can compile them in an HDR application.--- Setup
First you have to take pictures of the exact same theme. So you cannot just take a snapshot and try to turn this one into an HDR picture afterwards. I recommend a tripod or anything else where you can set up your cam so that it doesn't move, even if you change options for taking pictures. This is usually a tripod
--- Conditions
Make sure you have nothing that moves too much in the picture. On a windy day you wont be able to take good HDR pictures, cause moving trees just blur the picture or result in shadows in the final picture. And i bet you dont wanna spend time photoshopping them out. Sometimes clouds can become a problem or make the picture even nicer. If clouds move horizontal along the horizon, then you'll have the same structure for the clouds like 4 times in the picture which looks awkward in the result. But if you have moving clouds, which even maybe mix up the sky a little, then you'll get an even more contrast rich sky in the result.
--- Settingup the Camera
I've used 2 different ways to achieve different brightness and details in the photos i wanna use for a HDR Picture.
a) use different lens apature. This is good for daytime pictures.
b) use different exposure times. This is good for night and twilight
But it depends on your camera when you should use which method and maybe some cameras behave different depending on the light.
--- Taking the pictures
When taking the pictures you can decide to take between 2 and maybe 5 pictures. But i dont see a point in taking more then 5. For most applications 3 should be enough. 2 is a backup solution if you screwed one image up for example.
Make sure when you take the pictures that they all have different levels of brighness. Otherwise the HDR effect won't turn out very well. I showed above a good example of a range of pictures (lens apature from -2 to +2).
You should always make sure you do not move the camera in any way, otherwise you can start all over again.
--- Postprocessing
I'm not giving any tutorials for applications here just recommendations.
a) Photomatix: great tone-mapping, easy to use, but screws up auto-aligning some times. Good for: Dramatic Pictures
b) PhotoImpact: avarage tone-mapping, easy to use. Good for: Natural looking Pictures
c) PhotoShop: avarage tone-mapping, difficult to use. Good for: Natural looking Pictures
--- Advices:
- Avoid any kind of noise in the pictures, especially if you wanna use Photomatix (it boosts noise extremely). Keep the ISO low for less noise.
- Do not abuse the tone-mapping, you can really create unreal pictures with it, but that's not what HDR is for.
- Use HDR to enhance contrast/colors in your pictures and to even brightnesslevels and glowing of certain areas.
So okay, now enjoy taking HDR pictures.
Martin
------
Okay this turned out to be longer then I thought. suggestions via note please.
--- Based on my own few experiences with HDR Pictures (Check my Gallery)
Related content
Comments: 37
Diego-Suarez [2010-01-14 17:57:03 +0000 UTC]
Great walkthrough I've done it similar in the past but I think explains it very well.
Good job on giving back to the community
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WHOgenotte [2008-03-29 13:58:00 +0000 UTC]
Hi Martin,
habe gerade deine Anleitung gelesen. War mir zwar nicht neu aber hat mir meine bisherigen Kenntnisse bestΓ€tigt, DANKE. Habe auch gleich gesehen welche Software du zur HDR-Erzeugung nutzt. Wie machst du das mit den 5 Belichtungen - meine Cam (EOS400D) macht nur 3. Um 5 zu machen mΓΌsste ich an der Cam Einstellungen vornehmen, welche sicher zu Ghosts fΓΌhren wΓΌrde...wie machst du das?
GrΓΌΓe Roy
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real-creative In reply to WHOgenotte [2008-03-29 15:54:55 +0000 UTC]
Also ich arbeite auch mit der EOS 400D, ohne Stativ geht es mit der AEB Funktion ja sehr komfortabel und bei einem geringen dynamik umfang des motivs reicht das auch vollkommen aus. sollten aber trotzdem noch dunkle oder helle stellen ΓΌberstrahlen, dann musst du zum stativ greifen und die belichtungszeit variieren. da braucht man ja nur am rΓ€dchen drehen, das geht ganz fix, aber viel bewegen darf sich dann wirklich nicht!
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Ogrrr [2007-02-12 00:00:18 +0000 UTC]
Awesome tutorial, and the difference is really clear. I don't understand one thing tho. When you have taken your 2-5 pictures of the exact same scene, but with different camera specifications, then what? What is it exactly you do in Photoshop or Photomatix?
I'm sorry this sounds stupid, but I would really like to try this out. Because face it, the outcome is awesome. Totally awesome. I get what your saying, btu I still don't know enuff to actually go out and do it myself >.<
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Ogrrr In reply to Ogrrr [2007-02-18 14:47:49 +0000 UTC]
Thanks, that is a great help. But not the entire picture... if I get to know more, I'll come back to you about it
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xxqueenxofxskemexx In reply to Ogrrr [2007-02-17 09:07:25 +0000 UTC]
There is an automated script in photoshop(File>Automate>HDR...) that makes the HDR for you. I have been asking the same questions you have. I want to know the manual way of creating a HDR because I'm not getting precisely what I am wanting from the automated precedure. Good luck in your search and I hope I have partially answered your question.
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Ogrrr In reply to xxqueenxofxskemexx [2007-02-18 14:48:04 +0000 UTC]
Thanks, that is a great help. But not the entire picture... if I get to know more, I'll come back to you about it
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xxqueenxofxskemexx In reply to Ogrrr [2007-02-18 23:48:07 +0000 UTC]
I found this: [link] g=tipps.dri
I'm assuming that the software in CS2 does something similar but without the artistic liscence
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whsprwngs [2007-01-20 21:07:31 +0000 UTC]
Wow, the differences are really amazing! I'll have to take this into account on some of my next photos
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sassaputzin [2007-01-18 12:42:52 +0000 UTC]
thanks for ....very useful...i only have photoshop cs2. last night i tried this but instead of taking five images i processed a single raw file with 5 different exposures, i tired to merge them but it wouldnt let me telling me there was not enough info in the image to get a good hdr image....ill try the correct way tonight
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real-creative In reply to sassaputzin [2007-01-20 13:23:04 +0000 UTC]
and, did it work?
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sassaputzin In reply to real-creative [2007-01-20 13:35:08 +0000 UTC]
i didnt get chance to take an image, what files do you use, jpeg, tiff, psd, ? and what bit rate 8, 16, 32,?
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real-creative In reply to sassaputzin [2007-01-20 14:58:12 +0000 UTC]
i take regular jpg images (8-bit) !?
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sassaputzin In reply to real-creative [2007-01-20 15:01:11 +0000 UTC]
ok dont understand why its not working, ive taken raw images saved them with 5 different exposures but get the warning that "theres not enough dynamic range in the images to produce a good hdr image"
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real-creative In reply to sassaputzin [2007-01-20 16:04:39 +0000 UTC]
try capturing normal jpeg images, or convert the raw to jpeg first.
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sassaputzin In reply to real-creative [2007-01-20 16:14:17 +0000 UTC]
yeah i did....ill give it a go with normal jpegs......its raining hard at the moment so no chance....thanks for the help...
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real-creative In reply to sassaputzin [2007-01-20 16:15:44 +0000 UTC]
i tried it first with just a bottle in my room, no need to go out and find something "real" to shoot.
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sassaputzin In reply to real-creative [2007-01-20 16:28:22 +0000 UTC]
good point.........
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brian873 [2007-01-15 11:17:46 +0000 UTC]
nice simple tutorail I think i will give it a go !
hail hail
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real-creative In reply to brian873 [2007-01-15 13:26:07 +0000 UTC]
i'd love to see some results if you were successful
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brian873 In reply to real-creative [2007-01-15 15:38:47 +0000 UTC]
yeah I have an idea of what I ant to shoot although I need the weather to calm down a bit first.
I'll post them in my gallery when i do them, so keep an eye on it !
hail hail
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Ra1Der [2007-01-14 10:34:53 +0000 UTC]
but all the same, its rather pleasing and probably a little more realisitic.
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real-creative In reply to Ra1Der [2007-01-14 12:34:31 +0000 UTC]
i took a look at the article about the filter, but i think sometimes when you might not have rather horizontal flat horizon or line where it gets brighter. this filter would make it look maybe a bit strange.
but i'm sure this is also a way to go for sunsets or when you're facing a clearly birght/dark devided picture.
thanks for bringing that up!
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Ra1Der [2007-01-14 10:23:48 +0000 UTC]
Nicely done! Although I would not worry about changing aperture during the day. If you own a DSLR, or advanced compact camera, you probably will have the option to bracket shots, this is the fastest way of doing this, a shutter release cable is also esential at night, to even further minimize camera shake (tripod doesnt fully illiminate it)
This here also is a good thing to use.
[link]
cheap as chips and works a treat! you dont get quite the same effect
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real-creative In reply to Ra1Der [2007-01-14 12:11:06 +0000 UTC]
i always use a 2sec timer instead of a cable. thanks for the further hints!
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marmota-b [2007-01-14 07:42:05 +0000 UTC]
It's really interesting! I'm afraid my camera is too simple for me to try it too, but still it's great stuff.
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real-creative In reply to marmota-b [2007-01-14 12:24:32 +0000 UTC]
well my camera is not really advanced, it's a simple point and shoot canon ixus 60 ... just look if you can adjust apature and you could do it
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neweiffel [2007-01-13 22:01:00 +0000 UTC]
Nice idea. Cheers for this, I think I'll try it sometime myself. Just updated from film to digital. It's complicated, but I'll get there.
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real-creative In reply to neweiffel [2007-01-15 13:26:54 +0000 UTC]
hehe if you pay for my visit i'll make sure i'll be there i can stay with a friend in london, so that'll be affordable ...
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neweiffel In reply to real-creative [2007-01-15 19:58:10 +0000 UTC]
ha. Nice. Not sure I can afford it .
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