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Sharpe19 — What classifies a pelt as not-mountable
Published: 2012-08-15 17:10:13 +0000 UTC; Views: 3365; Favourites: 30; Downloads: 17
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This is just a small demonstration as there are many things that classify a pelt as a wallhanger/not-mountable. Most often I look specifically for those pelts with damage to the head that would otherwise render it not mountable for Spooks and reference for art.Top left: Enlarged eyeholes. Enlarged eyeholes are often stretched/torn eye areas that will commonly lack eyelid material. Both lid material and the correct size hole are required for a proper mount. Almost all times that a novice attempts to mount a fox with enlarged eye holes, the end results in something resembling Kroenen from Hell Boy. Wide eyed, terrified, and just plain horrific.
Top right: Little to no lip matter and slipped/missing fur. While a skilled taxidermist can flock fur or replace missing patches, a head form needs lower and upper lip to secure the skin to the form, giving the proper mouth line.
Bottom left: Slipped/rubbed nose. If a pelt has this, means you'd best reach for a fake nose as this one cannot be saved. Slipping and rubbing occurs at the tannery, perhaps from the result from a poor skinning job, that area not getting enough tanning solution. etc.
Bottom right: Torn fur. While this can usually be sewn or if fur is missing, fur can be substituted in, most often times unless you are familiar with what you are doing, the result will look a bit Frankensteined.
This is by no means all that can classify a pelt, but just some more common findings. If your pelt has one or more of these don't attempt to mount it. If a taxidermist refuses to mount them, in what way does that say "mount me
". Save up, get a squirrel mounting kit or two (they're like.. $40 for EVERYTHING) and practice on those before purchasing a taxidermy quality pelt. Practice sculpting eyelids out of modelling clay, get tons of ref pictures. Get a couple coyote capes and do some shoulder mounts even. Once you've got the hang of it and are confident, get the proper supplies for the upcoming job, find the right pelt for you, and go for it. The result will be far more amazing and you will get appraised for your long hard work!
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Comments: 23
Useful.. do you think you could do one like this with what a good mountable pelt would look like?
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Will do so when I receive mine from the tannery :3
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Have you ever tried to mount a pelt that wasn't mountable? I just bought a pelt from a new Etsy seller who claimed that his pelts were mountable. I just received it (a raccoon) today. It was case skinned. It's missing its genital area, there is only a small sliver of lip, one eye hole is stretched, and its ears and eyes are folded and as hard as rocks. The pelt is beautiful and I really wanted to make him into my first mount. I'm a sculpture major, so even if some of the parts aren't there, I'm sure I could find a solution. The hardness of the feet and ears are what worries me. How do I fix this?
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You will want to make sure it can be hydrated first. Snip a little piece off of some of the leg skin and place it in salt water (luke warm) for about 20-30 minutes. take it out and stretch it with your fingers. Does it tear easily? Does any of the fur come out? If the answer is yes, your best bet is to keep it as a wall hanger.
If the answer is no, then you're ready for the next few questions. Are the ears turned, lips split, etc.? By the sounds of it, none of that has been done and hydrating will need to be done in order to do so.
Lip and eye matter is needed for a clean mount as it helps align the eyelids and lip line properly. Without it, it's difficult to do so. Feet normally need to be hydrated and clayed up with an air dry clay, ears hydrated for the ear liners or bondo.
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Thanks. I've also heard that some people test the pelt by wetting a small area with a sponge.
What does splitting the lips mean?
What do you mean by "ears [need to be] hydrated for the ear liners or bondo"?
Can you recommend any tutorials for mounting the raccoon or any animal? I'm really confused when it comes to putting in the eyes and fixing the ears and tucking in the lips.
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[link]
While this second link is prior to tanning, it shows what turning ears/lips/eyes are and how to do it [link]
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That first link is helpful. It confirmed that the raccoon pelt I bought is definitely not mountable. I have been looking everywhere for a humanely-sourced pelt that is mountable. I found someone on Etsy who skinned some animals that he obtained from pest control that were going to rot in the woods anyway, and he told me the pelt was mountable but it completely isn't.
Where do you purchase your pelts? I'm on a budget, so anywhere in the $30-$60 range is what I'm looking for. I'd love another raccoon, but any type of weasel or squirrel or muskrat or any little critter will do, as long as they are not killed specifically for taxidermy or raised on a farm. Wild only.
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I like www.hideandfur.com as it will tell you exactly if it was ranched or wild.
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Ahh, I did see that site and bookmarked it. I'm glad to hear it's a good site. I just wasn't sure how much shipping to PA would be. I guess I better make an account and see now that you've recommended it.
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oh man! i forgot about this one.
ill add it to the taxidermy tips!
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oh where can i find those 40 dollar squirrel mounting kits? i would love to start making my first mount!
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Van Dykes has several
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thanks! im really excited to try my hands on a small mammal. i didnt know they have kits like that C:
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I'm curious. Though the pelt should be listed as non mountable in the sale, if the tan is good, could the pelt still be mounted? I don't do taxidermy, but I just know of artists who are able to work with pelts like these (missing jaws, eye material etc.) and make them look good as new. It takes extra materials and care in the mounting process, but I'm just wondering the difference beween something that could be mounted and something that shouldn't be mounted. Like you said, you used these kinds of pelts for your Spooks (which I love btw) meaning that they're not 100% non mountable.
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Some times it isn't a matter of the quality of tan actually. The fox shown has a nice good tan that would be used, it's more of what is missing from the pelt. You need lip and eyelid matter in order to secure it well to a head form as well as make it look good instead of like Kroenen from Hellboy: [link]
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lol ok I get ya
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Oh yes, this pelt really is not mountable. But he still is a great looking wallhanger
The leather also does not look mountable, but do you know how mountable tans are called?
I have no idea, I only know garment tanned leather, but there actually are different garment tans and some are usable for rehydration and some are not.
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This particular leather actually hydrates quite nicely. Garment tans stand out for their soft supple texture. This one is a bit stiffer, thicker leather called a dry tan. Wet tans are required to be kept in freezers and used upon lifesize traditional mounts. While a garment tan can be hydrated, the result is often very slick, rubbery, and overall very unpleasant to work with.
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oh, ok thanks, sadly most tanned pelt here in my country are garment tanned.
I prefer the thicker dry tan, then. I have had many especially american pelts which were dry tanned. It is more easy to work with, I think.
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Most often pelts now adays are used for the garment industry hence a more supple tan sadly. I do have a pelt or two that has been garment tanned but for overall I will agree, a dry tan is much nicer to me.
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Nice job Sharpe, I see too many people attempt to mount an animal while (not using refferences and not spending the money for a quality skin ensuring a much less than lifelike mount and a waste in supplies.
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