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Description
Shooting to stream the demolding and casting of this, had expected to add the second layer a bit earlier but hey, beggars can't be choosers lol... Explanation...

1. The materials shown are the basics I use. MOLD IN A VERY WELL VENTILATED ROOM. Even with a fan and an open window I will still use a mask over my nose and mouth. Even if the fumes are light for Dragonskin, they can still be harmful. Don't get that attitude of "oh its just for a short period of time." cause it can still cause harm. Chemicals are chemicals.

Disposable NON-LATEX gloves as well as a clean stir cup and a wooden stir stick. Plastic lain upon the table will aid in cleanup as well as protecting your work area of any residue.

2. This is about the average amount I've found to use upon my mask sculpts, between 6-8 oz per layer. You can always mix up more if need be. Be sure to shake and stir each part before pouring into the mix cup.

3. Stir well as a pocket of a single part un-mixed will give a gooey mess. Pigments are fairly cheap and if used for molds, will last quite a while. I usually like a bright first layer to help see where its at.

4. The thi-vex is some of the best stuff in the world I swear. The initial layer I will usually have it thick, but still be able to drip a tad so it can run into cavities such as the tear ducts or nostrils. Second layer is hefty and won't drip at all.

5. When spreading it on, small nips into the clay accidentally won't hurt as that will be furred over. Be very cautious of ares such as the nose, eyelids, or any other exposed area as those details need to be kept as they are.

6. I mostly focus upon detail preservation and area covered more than look. There are some thinner spots shown but those will be beefed up later.

7. I've used molds with keys and I've used them without and I will tell you, take the extra little time and make that mold look like it has cancer! It will help tremendously.

8. I'm blue aba di aba d... well... get the idea lol. This will be the main structure of the mold so this layer is thick and heavy. Darker pigment used to counteract the bright pigment so any missed spots are easily seen.

Demolding and casting will be a livestream tutorial. If my hands aren't too coated in anything I will try to take shots for a second part of this.

All chemicals shown purchased from Smooth-on.com

Description
Shooting to stream the demolding and casting of this, had expected to add the second layer a bit earlier but hey, beggars can't be choosers lol... Explanation...

1. The materials shown are the basics I use. MOLD IN A VERY WELL VENTILATED ROOM. Even with a fan and an open window I will still use a mask over my nose and mouth. Even if the fumes are light for Dragonskin, they can still be harmful. Don't get that attitude of "oh its just for a short period of time." cause it can still cause harm. Chemicals are chemicals.

Disposable NON-LATEX gloves as well as a clean stir cup and a wooden stir stick. Plastic lain upon the table will aid in cleanup as well as protecting your work area of any residue.

2. This is about the average amount I've found to use upon my mask sculpts, between 6-8 oz per layer. You can always mix up more if need be. Be sure to shake and stir each part before pouring into the mix cup.

3. Stir well as a pocket of a single part un-mixed will give a gooey mess. Pigments are fairly cheap and if used for molds, will last quite a while. I usually like a bright first layer to help see where its at.

4. The thi-vex is some of the best stuff in the world I swear. The initial layer I will usually have it thick, but still be able to drip a tad so it can run into cavities such as the tear ducts or nostrils. Second layer is hefty and won't drip at all.

5. When spreading it on, small nips into the clay accidentally won't hurt as that will be furred over. Be very cautious of ares such as the nose, eyelids, or any other exposed area as those details need to be kept as they are.

6. I mostly focus upon detail preservation and area covered more than look. There are some thinner spots shown but those will be beefed up later.

7. I've used molds with keys and I've used them without and I will tell you, take the extra little time and make that mold look like it has cancer! It will help tremendously.

8. I'm blue aba di aba d... well... get the idea lol. This will be the main structure of the mold so this layer is thick and heavy. Darker pigment used to counteract the bright pigment so any missed spots are easily seen.

Demolding and casting will be a livestream tutorial. If my hands aren't too coated in anything I will try to take shots for a second part of this.

All chemicals shown purchased from Smooth-on.com