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Published: 2009-10-13 16:10:58 +0000 UTC; Views: 1275; Favourites: 18; Downloads: 67
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Part 1 of 4 [next | Finished Piece ]You need a good strong paper to color the way I do, but I do sometimes work on printer paper for quick pieces and pieces I don't think highly of. But printer paper fiber can break and leave white spots, and it will always get wavy from the pressure. If you use printer paper, make sure it's "acid free" or it will get yellow and brittle with age. Incidentally, the same is true of tape.
-Blakeman Snoot, Space Chameleon is mine- (October 13, 2009)
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Comments: 7
The-First-Ace [2009-10-17 00:12:42 +0000 UTC]
The tutorial is a nice idea.
Hehe, I'm lucky that I have a light table. XD
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Quelfabulous [2009-10-14 23:35:51 +0000 UTC]
this is awesome especially since I've always worked with cleaning up original pencil lines
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TigerHawkmon In reply to Quelfabulous [2009-10-20 00:43:42 +0000 UTC]
I'm happy if there useful stuff in it.
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RadosBadger [2009-10-14 07:47:01 +0000 UTC]
OK, I can say I learned smething new. That idea of getting a clean outline from a pencil sketch is something I dindΒ΄t think of even though I do have a light table. Anyway, isnΒ΄t it possible for you to just draw over the pencilwork with your colour pencils? They seem intense enough.
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TigerHawkmon In reply to RadosBadger [2009-10-14 18:53:23 +0000 UTC]
It certainly is possible to work directly ontop of pencil, and that's part of style choice. It's really good for a rougher earthier look, but it can also create a few challenges to coloring as the lines add their color. Gray pencil lines can be harmful to softer warm tones (like yellow), and I definitely can't hide blue pencil lines. I also sometimes get a weird halo around pencil lines, and ghosts of lines I've erased.
But again, it's a style choice. There are times I've inked and erased everything but the part I'm coloring.
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RadosBadger In reply to TigerHawkmon [2009-10-15 14:53:17 +0000 UTC]
Yeah, I can see your point there.
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