HOME | DD

WaistedSpace In reply to depresedescapist [2007-11-25 12:31:24 +0000 UTC]

to be honest I think things will only end in frustration if you use that many layers. For one, there is only so much room underneath the studs for the fabric to sit once you've "punched" them through. For another, it will be very difficult to sew through all of them, especially with a zipper foot. Also, it will make the area around the busk look raised up and may not flow with the rest of the corset.

Really all you need is 3 layers, maybe an extra layer of interfacing to reinforce the fashion layer if it's a weak fabric. Use only heavy cotton for the lining and core, and you'll be fine (preferably coutil, but cotton duck works well too, at less than half the price). There will be 2 extra layers where the boning will rest (twill tape is excellent for this). I learned this the hard way myself, thinking just as you are now that the more layers means a stronger corset. In actuality too many layers can do more harm than good.

Same thing goes for the grommets. If you use too many layers, the grommets won't seat themselves properly and may fall apart.
Good job on refining your pattern-drafting skills, btw. Especially for overbusts, that can be the most difficult part.

In reality you have to realize that unless you have years of complicated and difficult sewing experience, your first corset will probably not be very wearable. It's sort of a rite of passage, and you can look at it as the one where mistakes are acceptable and part of the process. I say that because if you're the type to even want to make a corset, you're likely very detail-oriented and take perfectionism to levels that many people would consider insane!

Good luck, I'm sure you'll find making corsets a very rewarding experience!

p.s. As you may already know, the more panels you make the more fitted your corset will be (and the more sewing you must endure). If you're very curvy I'd definitely go with 12 (6 per side), as 10 can leave gaps around the side-front (princess) seams

👍: 0 ⏩: 1

depresedescapist In reply to WaistedSpace [2007-11-26 01:43:21 +0000 UTC]

I'm not very curvy at all (37" bust, 31" underbust, 30" waist, 37" full hips), but I'm going for a six panel... just... because. With my (very small) friends I'll probably do five panels.

I'm going to make my corsets with one to four layers--strength layer/"interlining," made of either coutil or 15oz cotton duck, optional lining layer of broatcloth or light twill, optional fashion fabric, and optional sew in (flatlined) interfacing for the fashion fabric. If there is a lining, the fashion will be flatlined to the strenth layer, and if not, then either StitchWitcheried (I think I just invented a verb) to some type of stronger fabric like broadcloth or twill. Or maybe just taffeta. The seam allowance is folded under at the busk and grommets for extra strength when I'm using 1-3 layers of fabric and they are mostly flimsier ones. I'm really, really paranonid about poke through, as it's incredibly difficult and not aesthetically pleasing to repair. I've done so much research on corset construction that I know which techniques to use for all of them, though the seam technique for 2+ layers of fabric makes rather bulky boned seams, but I don't think it will be a huge problem if I don't use too much bulky fabric and clip my seam allowance.

I'm actually not very perfectionist, just... easily obsessed. My machine is old, cranky, loud, and not very smooth, so my lines on it are not too accurate, but I'm working on that. I also just learned that I must oil it once every three to four days, and not once a month as I originially thought...

I'm supposed to make corsets for my friends after I make my own... so I hope the quality isn't too bad. I'm kinda charging them $150-$190...

Maybe I'll just get the Truly Victorian pattern to make theirs to reduce potential mistakes.

Thank you very much for your advice!

I still ADORE your corsets. Have you made any more recently? I wish I owned that pink and blue lace one. My friend asked for neon colours, so I think I'm going to make hers out of bright cyan/blue and bright pink/violet silk dupioni.

👍: 0 ⏩: 1

WaistedSpace In reply to depresedescapist [2007-11-27 02:41:48 +0000 UTC]

If you can find it, you might want to use an interfacing that is fabric-backed. Stitch witchery tends to leave fabrics feeling a little "papery" (speaking of inventing words!).

I haven't made a corset actually in almost exactly a year. The last one was the red silk corset and skirt, and it's been all chainmaille since then. While I'm burning to make one again, it's just not profitable to do so right now (nor do I have the time). Eventually though I'll make something - my sewing machine I'm sure feels neglected!

It's funny you mention the silk and lace corset - I get more comments on that one than any other I've made (including the chainmaille corset). Since supplies cost so much, I tend to tear up corsets I make for myself to part them out for the next project. I've been tempted to do so with that one, but comments like that definitely keep me from taking scissors to it! Maybe I'll incorporate it into next year's halloween costume....

👍: 0 ⏩: 1

depresedescapist In reply to WaistedSpace [2007-11-27 03:28:28 +0000 UTC]

I actually got a roll of stitch witchery. I figured I'd use it to fuse the really flimsy fashion fabrics to something stronger like twill or the coutil only on the edges aka seam allowance so it wouldn't really change the texture. I also got a role of HeadnBond, with paper backing, so I can iron it to one piece at a time and therefore be more precise.

I may just use fusible interfacing. I just found a roll of pellon interfacing, the kind with the soft, stretchy polyester fiber stuff with little dots of glue all over it, but I've been repeatedly told that fusible interfacing on silks and such will make potato chips of it... Maybe I'll just stick to flatlining.

Don't ever take scissors to it! It's SUCH a beautiful piece.

So yeah... it costs $100 to make a corset... ;_; I find that even as a beginner "corsetiere," (I hope I can ACTUALLY call myself that someday), I have to charge a minimum price of $160. :C

👍: 0 ⏩: 0

WaistedSpace In reply to natasiakith [2007-10-26 05:37:09 +0000 UTC]

I'm glad it helped out

👍: 0 ⏩: 0