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Description
So I received a commission for the scissorblade of Ryuko Matoi from Kill la Kill
this is a very interesting weapon and though i thought it was simple it proved to be quite detailed and i just wanted to share my process with you all>< All this was done in a process of 3 days and it will be finished tomorrow, so 4 days total to make this entire prop

Materials:

-good reference

-drafting things (paper, pencil, color pencil, ruler, etc.)

-insulation foam

-scroll saw

-dremel

-hand sander

-spackling paste (something to fill in holes)

-rough sand paper

-ultra fine sand paper

-wood glue (and something to apply with, so paint brush)

-plastidip (comes in red, black or white)

-acrylic paint

-gloss spray paint

Final Product: xxsnowfrostxx.deviantart.com/a…

Steps:

1) started off by finding a nice reference and making an accurate flat reference. I scaled it and pulled the ratio up to the size i wanted, for this sword, i scaled it to fit my commissioner and it ended up being 42 inches long. I like to also draw in all the beveled edges in my reference and make small notes of how i wanted each edge to be sanded.

2) I used a piece of insulation foam and scaled it from a 12 inch model to the 42 inch life-size sword. Drew it out on my foam, including all the beveled edges.

3) Using my 18 inch scroll saw, cut out the general shape keeping close to the lines I drew and then used a small drill to get the holes and then gradually sanding it to make it the size i want.

4) cutting and sanding was on the same day, so i beveled all the edges using a hand sander, smaller areas like the hilt area where the handle and blade connected i had to sand by hand to get the small details. The entire handle is also rounded to it fits the hand better and is more comfortable. The detailing at the top of the hilt I kinda made up, probably not canon but looks nice so I kept it and it was more in-depth in my opinion to keep it that way. After the initial sanding with rough sand paper, i used a fine sander to make it smooth.

5) Up until step 4, the insulation foam is super weak and flimsy which is good since as your sanding and cutting you might be a bit more rough so having a very flimsy board keeps it from breaking, the tip was extremely bendy as well since I had sanded it down so much so it requires some hardening. I used speckling paste to fill in holes and also the uneven surfaces and used an ultra fine grit sanding paper and hand sanded the entire sword down. Afterwards, I took wood glue and applied 2-3 layers. This hardens up the foam as well as seals it from being ruined by the elements and chemicals. Between each layer, i sanded it down with the ultra fine sand paper so that each layer is ensure to be super smooth.

6) I took rubbing alcohol and wiped the sword down to make sure its free of dust before taking it to my spray station. Be careful and wear protective things like goggles and a mask!! I did 3 thin layers of red plastidip so it will be more solid and be able to take some damage, and then a thicker layer of plastidip to end. Did it in 15 minute intervals to allow some dry time and its now curing for the next 4-10 hours in the garage without being disturbed to make sure its completely cured.

7) not shown but it will receive some weathering/shadow effects with acrylic paint and then be hit with gloss paint tomorrow for finished look!!

Description
So I received a commission for the scissorblade of Ryuko Matoi from Kill la Kill
this is a very interesting weapon and though i thought it was simple it proved to be quite detailed and i just wanted to share my process with you all>< All this was done in a process of 3 days and it will be finished tomorrow, so 4 days total to make this entire prop

Materials:

-good reference

-drafting things (paper, pencil, color pencil, ruler, etc.)

-insulation foam

-scroll saw

-dremel

-hand sander

-spackling paste (something to fill in holes)

-rough sand paper

-ultra fine sand paper

-wood glue (and something to apply with, so paint brush)

-plastidip (comes in red, black or white)

-acrylic paint

-gloss spray paint

Final Product: xxsnowfrostxx.deviantart.com/a…

Steps:

1) started off by finding a nice reference and making an accurate flat reference. I scaled it and pulled the ratio up to the size i wanted, for this sword, i scaled it to fit my commissioner and it ended up being 42 inches long. I like to also draw in all the beveled edges in my reference and make small notes of how i wanted each edge to be sanded.

2) I used a piece of insulation foam and scaled it from a 12 inch model to the 42 inch life-size sword. Drew it out on my foam, including all the beveled edges.

3) Using my 18 inch scroll saw, cut out the general shape keeping close to the lines I drew and then used a small drill to get the holes and then gradually sanding it to make it the size i want.

4) cutting and sanding was on the same day, so i beveled all the edges using a hand sander, smaller areas like the hilt area where the handle and blade connected i had to sand by hand to get the small details. The entire handle is also rounded to it fits the hand better and is more comfortable. The detailing at the top of the hilt I kinda made up, probably not canon but looks nice so I kept it and it was more in-depth in my opinion to keep it that way. After the initial sanding with rough sand paper, i used a fine sander to make it smooth.

5) Up until step 4, the insulation foam is super weak and flimsy which is good since as your sanding and cutting you might be a bit more rough so having a very flimsy board keeps it from breaking, the tip was extremely bendy as well since I had sanded it down so much so it requires some hardening. I used speckling paste to fill in holes and also the uneven surfaces and used an ultra fine grit sanding paper and hand sanded the entire sword down. Afterwards, I took wood glue and applied 2-3 layers. This hardens up the foam as well as seals it from being ruined by the elements and chemicals. Between each layer, i sanded it down with the ultra fine sand paper so that each layer is ensure to be super smooth.

6) I took rubbing alcohol and wiped the sword down to make sure its free of dust before taking it to my spray station. Be careful and wear protective things like goggles and a mask!! I did 3 thin layers of red plastidip so it will be more solid and be able to take some damage, and then a thicker layer of plastidip to end. Did it in 15 minute intervals to allow some dry time and its now curing for the next 4-10 hours in the garage without being disturbed to make sure its completely cured.

7) not shown but it will receive some weathering/shadow effects with acrylic paint and then be hit with gloss paint tomorrow for finished look!!