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AlexandersMantids — Red Eye.
Published: 2015-08-03 22:21:20 +0000 UTC; Views: 21; Favourites: 1; Downloads: 0
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Yeah, it's the new one that just arrived. Not in the best shape... I asked for a female and its the same size as my males, only emaciated. I had to force feed it just so itd not die. They dont eat for a while, like your mossy frog hadnt. I honestly am not sure itd have made it through that stage considering how horribly thin it was. It had cuts all over its nose too, and the guy actually told me it was from the shipping lid and always happens! Youd think he would have used a different method in that case. It also behaves oddly. Not very active and it gathers up shedding on its skin but wont wipe it off or do the motions its supposed to do. And it sleeps on the floor rather than the side. It might just be because its new. but the night i went to hand feed it, i noticed this red mark. Not sure if it hit something and its a minor injury or if its some skin disease. It does look better today so i think it may just have been an injury. Ive been giving it special baths and keeping the QT container very clean, washing it every day. So hopefully the little one will be okay. Im not going to order from them again though (Snakes at Sunset).
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Definitely need different shipping cups if that keeps happening and I was checking out Snakes at Sunset as a possible place to buy from myself so it's good to know to stay away. Not sure if this is the same kinda bath you're using or not but a soak in water with uniodized (salt without iodine) will deter bacteria and fungus growth. Just be sure to rinse your froggy off after the bath and let him/her soak up to the chin for at least 5mins.
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I know right?
Yeah dont buy from them, ive mentioned the frogs condition to the guy twice and he wont respond. Reviews are good on the website, but on yelp theyre horrible. I wish id checked elsewhere before purchasing. I was giving him honey baths. I bought uniodized salt, how much should i put in, say, a bowl of water that's 5" long, 3" wide, and 2" deep? Like a pinch? thanks for the help. I read that unflavored pedialyte works too?
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I used about 1 large pinch of it in one of Petco's Betta cups when I gave Totoro a soak (I had the cup filled about halfway with water). You don't want too much that it irritates their skin or dry's out their mucus layer. A smaller, lower container will best keep the frog stuck down in the water. If the bowl is too high he'll climb above the water and if you fill it too full to compensate for the height he could drown. A small, low lidded container seems to work best like a Petco Betta cup like I used or a small food storage container.
Unflavored and uncolored Pedialyte is for reptiles that are malnourished. The electrolytes, nutrients, and water in it is absorbed through the cloaca in reptiles or the skin in amphibians. It will not prevent infection or fungus, so it's bested used for animals with internal illnesses like a cold or parasites or used before a cream is applied to an external wound (can't do that on amphibians). The salt bath creates an unfavorable atmosphere for the growth of bacteria and fungus effectively killing or preventing the growth/spread of many forms. Hence, it's best used for treatment of external wounds on amphibians. I wouldn't do both a Pediatyte soak and salt bath even days apart because it'll be too much stress.
Since the new arrival hasn't been eating, continue force-feeding him/her high calorie, fatty foods (waxworms, butterworms) no more than once every 1-2 weeks because it's a stressful process, plus if he/she always had food in his/her tummy when you offer food she/he will be less likely to start taking food on his/her own. With Barbosa his problem was he was unhappy with his cage so after trying different setups I finally go the right combo that got him eating. #1 start by giving you new arrival a larger quarantine cage as too small a cage is often a factor in frogs (specifically) not eating. Add extra cover in the cage too, maybe even drape a towel over the front of the cage and/or tape construction paper to the back and short sides. Barbosa was use to having the bottom of his cage flooded with water so he didn't take kindly to a water bowl. Some people keep their Red-Eyes in such a setup so you can next (after the above suggestions have failed) try covering the floor of his cage with an inch or two of water and then if still no change in activity level (if he likes this change he'll become more active) or still not eating add an aquarium bubble blower (just the tube with or with a small air stone) to the water to create a current (this is ultimately what worked for Barbosa when combined with a larger cage). Try different types of food too. He may be a weird frog like Barbosa and insist that his crickets by loose in his cage so he can chase them and he may only be interested in crickets. I too prefer they'd eat crickets from a tall dish like your other 2 but even though Barbosa was use to being served his food in this manner he will not do it for me.
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Thanks for the help! I stopped with the pedialyte and just am doing a pinch of uniodized salt in a beta container, filled about an inch, maybe two. Its a little under the chin. Sometimes he soaks and doesnt move much, other times he is trying to escape and i have to place him back in the water. I be sure he gets about 5 minutes of contact either way. He seems better lately!
Yeah I havent force fed in a while, she doesnt look as starved so i feel she will be okay and hopefully eat before getting too thin again! ill try different methods like you said, like let em lose in the cage and stuff. I could also get some moths and see how that works!
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Once she does start eating buy powdered Pixie frog food and dust her cricket with that to boost the amount of calories and nutrients she gets at each feeding. This will help her put her weight back on.
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Pixie frog food? Can you get that at petco/petsmart? If not ill check online. Thanks!
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I'd imagine you could get it at a pet shop. It was a tip from a breeder.
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I'll have a look, thanks!
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