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Description

File updated! Blacks altered for a little more leniency.
The first of many visual guides to come Written by ThatDenver , edited by myself and checked against no less than four different admin screens for final review.
Also, what are categories?

As stated on the sheet, all of these values represent the absolute last shade that will still be accepted for the color in question. While setting such a border is always artificial, it provides both administration and members some solid guidelines to work with. Since every screen and indeed, every eye, is different, it’s simply impossible to account for the wide spectrum of variation - it doesn’t help that we also understand colors a bit differently. Indeed, there have been cases of green perlinos, cherry red chestnuts and very clearly blue blacks. These may look correct on the screen that made them, but we can not see what you see, and as such, these basic borders have now been established. We hope this will cut down on arguments stemming from members being told their horses are too red (for example), as on our screens we see a cherry bomb, but on yours it's a perfectly dull brown. Now we can all be on the same page!

Black: Your black may be no lighter, bluer or browner than the shades depicted. This means any black must be between these values and 000000 (true black). You can go as close to true black as you wish.
Pure black may never be lighter or more saturated than these values. All pure blacks must be clearly black, not brown or grey.
Pure black color appears in following: undiluted black horses and blue roans, black points of wild bays, bays and seal bays.
If your horse is pure black and has a mutation that may cause black markings, both values must be inside the acceptable spectrum, with the black markings being darker than your base black - as such, you can’t have them at the same darkness but the other tinted blue, for example. Visual guide to come to explain black on black further.

White: Acceptable border values for white color on a horse. This means any white must be between these values and FFFFFF (true white).
Pure white may never be darker or more saturated than these values. All pure white must be clearly white, and not too heavily tinted.
Pure white color appears in following: any natural white markings, and any mutations which cause white markings.
All white markings on your horse, regardless of origin, must be the same shade.
The white used must be lighter than your base coat, if the white markings are visible. White markings can never be colored in such a way where they become darker than the light base coat (for ex. champagne cream). It is, however, acceptable to have the base coat and white markings be the same white.
It’s recommended to use a tint similar to the base coat to avoid a very confusing look on your horse. On a light cream, pinkish white markings are likely to look very off.
Special notice: Whites and blacks should not be tinted towards unnatural colors, such as green, purple, bright red etc. All tints should be natural; that is, muted in tone. This is true even for colors such as Moulin or Glimmer.

Red: Acceptable border values for red (brown) color on a horse.
No brown may be brighter, more orange or more red than shown here. Brown may, however, be less saturated, lighter or closer to black than these values. This showcases the absolute brightest and most saturated end of the spectrum. As such, browns can go all the way from these values to brownish and greyish dark browns.
Red color is fairly common, and appears in colors such as bays and chestnuts. Many colors also dilute towards brown shades.

Cream: Acceptable border values for cream color on a horse.
No cream may be more orange or yellow than shown here. The color of your choosing should never be closer than this to green on the color spectrum, even when using muted or close to white shades.
Cream is a fairly common color and appears in red based creams, double creams and cream champagnes.
The green spectrum is also especially useful when creating flaxen or silver manes, for example.

Special notice #2: None of these rules of saturation concern Moulin or Glimmer, which can be brighter (although not more green) than the values shown here.

Description

File updated! Blacks altered for a little more leniency.
The first of many visual guides to come Written by ThatDenver , edited by myself and checked against no less than four different admin screens for final review.
Also, what are categories?

As stated on the sheet, all of these values represent the absolute last shade that will still be accepted for the color in question. While setting such a border is always artificial, it provides both administration and members some solid guidelines to work with. Since every screen and indeed, every eye, is different, it’s simply impossible to account for the wide spectrum of variation - it doesn’t help that we also understand colors a bit differently. Indeed, there have been cases of green perlinos, cherry red chestnuts and very clearly blue blacks. These may look correct on the screen that made them, but we can not see what you see, and as such, these basic borders have now been established. We hope this will cut down on arguments stemming from members being told their horses are too red (for example), as on our screens we see a cherry bomb, but on yours it's a perfectly dull brown. Now we can all be on the same page!

Black: Your black may be no lighter, bluer or browner than the shades depicted. This means any black must be between these values and 000000 (true black). You can go as close to true black as you wish.
Pure black may never be lighter or more saturated than these values. All pure blacks must be clearly black, not brown or grey.
Pure black color appears in following: undiluted black horses and blue roans, black points of wild bays, bays and seal bays.
If your horse is pure black and has a mutation that may cause black markings, both values must be inside the acceptable spectrum, with the black markings being darker than your base black - as such, you can’t have them at the same darkness but the other tinted blue, for example. Visual guide to come to explain black on black further.

White: Acceptable border values for white color on a horse. This means any white must be between these values and FFFFFF (true white).
Pure white may never be darker or more saturated than these values. All pure white must be clearly white, and not too heavily tinted.
Pure white color appears in following: any natural white markings, and any mutations which cause white markings.
All white markings on your horse, regardless of origin, must be the same shade.
The white used must be lighter than your base coat, if the white markings are visible. White markings can never be colored in such a way where they become darker than the light base coat (for ex. champagne cream). It is, however, acceptable to have the base coat and white markings be the same white.
It’s recommended to use a tint similar to the base coat to avoid a very confusing look on your horse. On a light cream, pinkish white markings are likely to look very off.
Special notice: Whites and blacks should not be tinted towards unnatural colors, such as green, purple, bright red etc. All tints should be natural; that is, muted in tone. This is true even for colors such as Moulin or Glimmer.

Red: Acceptable border values for red (brown) color on a horse.
No brown may be brighter, more orange or more red than shown here. Brown may, however, be less saturated, lighter or closer to black than these values. This showcases the absolute brightest and most saturated end of the spectrum. As such, browns can go all the way from these values to brownish and greyish dark browns.
Red color is fairly common, and appears in colors such as bays and chestnuts. Many colors also dilute towards brown shades.

Cream: Acceptable border values for cream color on a horse.
No cream may be more orange or yellow than shown here. The color of your choosing should never be closer than this to green on the color spectrum, even when using muted or close to white shades.
Cream is a fairly common color and appears in red based creams, double creams and cream champagnes.
The green spectrum is also especially useful when creating flaxen or silver manes, for example.

Special notice #2: None of these rules of saturation concern Moulin or Glimmer, which can be brighter (although not more green) than the values shown here.