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InKibus — Runefang in the making WIP
Published: 2011-09-14 01:09:54 +0000 UTC; Views: 1864; Favourites: 19; Downloads: 56
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Description
The unbelievably oversized Runefang for Elector Count Marius Leitdorf, part of the Warhammer Fantasy.Part of a commission for the epically awesomely :iconcolonellianross: And final images of blade with owner, are of and are shared with vewwy nice permisshy by ~ColonelLiamRoss as well.
< Click on this image for the full character story behind this piece. Truly a fun experience creating something so over-the-top off several ideas.
I'll be happier to create a more detailed tutorial if requested, but the most important steps are outlined here;
~Get a board, I used ash, It's clean, nice weight and not too porous.
~ Make your centers and middles, and cut out the blade size. Over-sized, naturally, you have much cleaning and sculpting to do. I used a rough disk sander/scaler and a large belt sander to do the bulk of the 'grunt' work for the blade. I also do it by eye. (I have the tools, I have the talent.)
~ For the pommel, cross guards, grips, I used Bondo. Reinforce and protruding details with nails, and you may need to build plywood frames/boxes (lined with wax paper!!!) to build out with your Bondo. And a Dixie cup is the best way to make a pommel, once filled with Bondo.
~Dremel and etch the details.
~The grey paint is KRYLON AUTO BODY PRIMER. It's in the same Holy Church as Bondo, get it and love it. It fills in scratches and grooves, can be sanded between coats, and takes all kinds of finishes. I love it.
~ Paint, antique, laquer, fuss over the colours more. Repeat cycle. Rinse.
~ Pack in a sturdy crate.
~Hope all you props get to exist in such a gorgeous place with such a kick ass owner.
Hope this helps!
Seen in rawer format
Quicks links to my;
~Costumes and props
~Tutorials for crafting
~Original Fantasy Artworks
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Cafepress Store 
DA prints 
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Comments: 14
Very interesting process here.
I like the fact that you have taken a piece of wood and turned it into a piece of "Metal". The portions of the design that stand out for me are the guard, pommel and "turned" handle areas.
I think that the reason they stand out for me is that you have created them out of filler material. As such they took the paint in a much more realistic fashion and really look like metal.
If I have any major issue with the piece it is how you prepped for the blade area. Since you are familiar with Krylon Auto Body primer (ONE OF THE BEST!!!) I can skip the notes about finding a good primer. I do think that you would have gotten a much smoother and more realistic finish if you had applied 5 or 6 coats of primer and sanded with progressively finer grades of sand paper between. To get a truly smooth finish I take things all the way up to 600 grit wet sand sand paper for the final surfacing application before the final prime coat. You may also want to look into a product called "Red Lead". It is another auto body finishing product that is designed to fill very small digits and the like. It required no mixing (YAY!) and dries very quickly if it is applied in a very thin fashion. Great stuff that is.
Now, for an explanation of the scores:
Vision gets full marks. Being able to take an actual item of unknown material and realize it in something that you can work with requires a good deal of creativity. I think you have done a wonderful job with the process here.
Originality does not get full marks because you are not creating an item completely from your imagination (Yes it's a commission and of an existing item. I know...) so I feel that you can not have full marks here. The only thing holding this back is that final level of creativity. (Which is completely not applicable to this project. But there it is.)
Technique takes a bit of a hit because I think you can get the surface treatment for the blade MUCH MUCH smoother and as a result get the metallic look of the blade much more believable. Other then that I really like your technique and may well steal some of the processes you have shown here. Great stuff. I'd love to see you do another one where you do take the blade finish up to 600 grit sand paper in a wetland application to really get an amazing surface. You can also wax and buff the final result to get that really glossy auto body finish if it is applicable.
Impact doesn't get completely full marks because this is a WIP. I love that you have the final version shown but from a compositing standpoint there is something a bit disjointed about how you have set it up. Check out ArtyAMG's WIPs for some tutorials that are perhaps a bit better assembled. Not too much to improve here though.
All in all I really like the tutorial and piece. KUDOS!
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Oh wow!!!! 
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My pleasure!
It looked as though you were trying to get an entire process across. I've written a few tutorials myself but I have my wife (Who isn't a model builder at all) read and proof them. If she can read and understand them I know I've gotten the tutorial to where it should be.
I was hoping to help you reach a similar place. Sadly with a critique, it's hard to give full marks as a "Piece of Art" as they really aren't art per se. However there certainly is an art in creating a good tutorial and they usually contain art. So some of what I said in the critique reflects that.
Glad you think the critique was somewhat helpful.
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stunning work, very consistent in the level of detail. and your steel grey paint is very convincing.
I do have a question though.
what did you use to apply the paint and primer?
I hear left and right an airbrush works best, but those things are a big investment.
would you argee to them, or do you use another method?
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Many thanks!
Great questions!
First thing I use is that Krylon Auto Body filler, which , besides giving an awesome texture, adds a slate grey under tone that keeps things clean to work with.
THe basic colours are merely other krylon metallic spray paints. I know how to feather them lighting out of the can for sort of 2-toning the silver. (Super shiney silver and a darker silver)
The duller greys are achieved by hand painting with FolkWare paints. I mix and match by eye, and just spread carefully. Also, I like to get subtle whites and silver for the blade edge to give it a 'sharp' look.
The flat of the blade is often darker, and that is other Folkware paints, with tones of Umber and even black.
Then I take a finishers glaze and glaze the piece and rub the blade parts, but leave some glaze for a real weather looked.
You can see a great example here.
Between each coat of paint, and there are many, I seal it with artist fixatives and vinyl sealers. It seals the colous so they won't rub off, and I can add more paint right on top of that sealer very easily.
Believe it or not, just last month I started using an airbrush for applying layered effects with paints. I use an industrial air gun for applying lacquer to furniture, so am no stranger to airing on substances.
And I've use an airbrush to do broad painting for things like a primer coat. But I'm quite learning with airbrushes. They ARE the best, though. If you don't have the money or patience to commit to one, it's possible to not have one. But if you have enough project, are willing to learn and keep the gun flawlessly clean, they are well worth it.
I hope this answered you questions~!
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(I have the tools, I have the talent.)
Yes, yes you do!
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Love,love,love it! Awesome adding the runes in German, you should be very proud!
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Thank you! It IS a crazy amount of work, but worth every minute.
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