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punchyninja — shiny tutorial
Published: 2005-08-29 07:44:23 +0000 UTC; Views: 5999; Favourites: 75; Downloads: 687
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well I made up a tutorial on how I draw shiny clothes. I was feeling lazy so its an old ass page from one of my sketchbooks and its pretty sloppy. I think it gets the major points across....I hope.So it starts with a sketch.... then dark to light values are layed in.
The key is contrast. Hot white spots surrounded by dark areas read as shiny. To many hot spots though and it falls apart. The hot spots have to hit on a upper area of a surface from the direction of the light. so say....on a sholder from the right.
Hard to soft lines in the values will read as folds, and the upper ridge of a fold should be lighter and may have a hot spot on it.
The color is a colorize layer, and I use a glow tool with the light source color to make the hot spots really pop.
once it gets to the last stage you can keep using the glow, colorize, and digital water colors to make it more detailed.
hope that helps....here is a video link of the drawing if anyone wants to see it unfold.
[link]
I sleep now.
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Comments: 48
Holy moley, you did this all those years ago?!
I really need to try these out more, and make my suits look great.
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whoa, this thing is ooooold. I need to do a new one.
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Yeah, it's a nine-year old piece, but I do want something to make my latex and rubber stuff more shiny and professional.
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new tricks, I use a lot of is a screen layer and the just add water blender to get subtle gradients. (or an airbrush set to like 10% opacity and make it large....)
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It's been a while since I've last drawn anything, so I'm way out of practice and think it's a great time to start learning new techniques. I'm thinking of trying this out, but I have a quick question. At the stage where you use a smearing tool to smooth things out, I can't seem to find that tool in Painter IX. I can't even find a general category with that icon. I have the Windows version, but I'd assume they should have the same brushes. I'm also trying the usual tools under blenders that I used to use, but they don't seem to have as pronounced an effect as whatever you're using does. Any idea what I'm missing?
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wow. I forgot I had even done this tutorial thingie. Brushy is a blender that was an extra on the painter 5.5 web addition cd. pretty freakin obscure I know. I just kept importing him as I upgraded and eventually forgot that it wasn't a default brush. It's nothing special though, its just a blender. I should have not used any custom or odd brushes when I wrote this up. sorry bout that. The blenders in painter XI icon wise look like a traditional paper blender (like a pencil made of paper)
hope that helps.
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Thanks, I found some tools that seem to work. Now I'm baffled by the last couple steps though. How did you get the colorized layer to interact with the layer below like that? I know you can select a box to have it pick up the underlying color but you don't seem to have yours checked, nor did it seem to work that way when I tried it. I think I'm too used to my old habits of having individual layers for every major category of coloring (skin, clothes, etc.). I'd just use a polygon lasso in Photoshop to do my color filling, and then turn on preserve transparency everywhere I went. Does your method inherently cause "drawing out of the lines" as it were, or is there a way to avoid/correct it?
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The colorize layer (colorize is a layer blending mode, its called "color" in photoshop) so if you draw white it does nothing, any color you draw only will change the color but NOT the value of the layer below. SOooo I draw in grey scale then put a layer ontop that is then set to a blending mode of colorize. then I just color on that layer (that is blending down to the grey scale drawing below)
hope that makes sense....
I flatten (or drop layer in painter) when I'm done.
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Thanks, I'll look into that. It seems it might be the opposite of a method I've been experimenting with that I saw from another tutorial. That method basically places all the flat colors on lower layers as I'd normally have done, and then places a fill layer above them in which all the shading goes, though black ends up being clear and white ends up being a shadow.
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the key with this, the color is pretty much a glaze. Its translucent for lack of a better term, and the drawing values sit below making parts darker or lighter.
The other method for this that I've seen and used is making a screen layer ontop of a colored drawing. this would lighten the brighter areas.
anyways, its really what works for you! mess around, have fun, and if ya have any questions let me know
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I think I've gotten the basic gist of everything down now. I'm modifying the technique slightly to coincide with my normal technique. I'm going to keep my line-art on a top layer as per usual, create and save a selection around the whole area to be colored, then I can just flood fill that selection with gray and do the shading on that while using preserve transparency. I've generally made all my colored flats that way, with selections, and from what I've seen, flood filling the colorized layer works reasonably well as long as I've got a selection around the area I want colored. I had found that while using the digital watercolors on a non-canvas layer, it caused problems with blending.
Somewhat related to the whole process is a question of backgrounds. Since you seem to work from the canvas layer for your main subject, what do you typically do if you wish to do a detailed background? I've always used the canvas for the background and had the subjects on layers until the end. I'd have trouble doing things all on the canvas layer, or even just merging layers later, as I'm always paranoid that I'll notice something I missed and not be able to touch it up properly later. It causes my files to be upwards of 30MB lately. Thank goodness for the hard drive sizes of today.
A quick question on another Painter topic though. Have you ever found that Painter crashes like mad under certain circumstances, even going as far as eating your file if it crashes while saving? From what I've read on other forums, and tested myself, is that if you click anywhere on the drawing with the selection tool while you already have a selection active, Painter will crash. If you were in the process of saving, the crash can cause your file to be reduced to just whatever it had managed to save to that point. I had to look into this after I nearly lost an entire painting I'd been working on for hours. The only saving grace was that the saved scripts managed to restore maybe 1/4 of the work I'd done that night. Now I save on at least two staggered files, switching up every twenty or so minutes.
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I tend to keep the file flattened as I go. Painter 11 does an auto bak version every time I save so that helps from loosing to much work. it also auto records a script each session which you can sometimes playback after a crash. Its been pretty stable for me lately, but It needs a lot of memory. Not a good idea to have it and photoshop open at the same time.
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I ended up finishing the project I was attempting this on, and it had interesting results, though not nearly as competent as yours. I did sort of run into a problem trying to figure out what to do in the case of an area that was supposed to be mostly white in the first place. If you care to take a look, it's the most recent post in my gallery, but it is one of my hanging pieces so it might not be something you'd be interested in seeing.
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Do you know if there's a tutorial like this for Photoshop?
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it would work in photoshop, just use the color blend mode instead of colorize. the highlights you can just use brush work.....I'll do one up for Photoshop when I get a chance. should be pretty easy, though the glow tool in painted is the bomb.
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Thanks a lot, I look forward to it.
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Thanks!! just tryin to share what little I've figured out
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The tutorial was awesome. This is so going into my favorites...
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wow. glad it helped. I love seeing peoples process work, but am never certain how helpful mine is to others.
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this is an awesome tutorial. Where do you get corel painter?
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corel has a demo version on thier website, and if you own a wacom tablet you can buy it for just the cost of the upgrade. well worth it.
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thank you for the info
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wow, so you color stuff in black and white and then colorize it after? that's a technique i woulda never thought of. very interesting tutorial, thanks for posting!
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Thanks! Yeah a friend at work showed me how to do that (he does some amazing work, and is a great teacher) [link] I suck at doing color and value at the same time, and value is really whats important, so this helps me focus a bit more on it. Its sort of like glazing in oil paint, not that I oil paint that much
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This is a really nice tutorial! I'm going to have to refer back to it later. <3
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Cool deal. If you have any questions about it fire away!
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Actually, I'm pretty good. You did a real good job explaining everything. Thanks though! I'll be sure to ask when I get confused somewhere though, which is likely. xD
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heh, SHINY!!! i know i keep commenting on the shine, but its so awesome. I guess thats why the tut was made. When I get some time, I'm making some shiny.
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oh how much fun it is to make that little hot spot on the shiny! it makes me giddy.
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Great job!! Thanks for explaining the process.
Jill
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Cool. Glad you liked it!
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Wow. Cool. Let me know if you have any questions. The smeary tool I use is "brushy" from painter 6. You can import old painter brushes into painter 9....or you can set the resaturation value to 0 and the bleed to like 90% I think and it'll make any brush act as a smearing tool.
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NP, maybe I'll post a couple more....
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damn str8, u shud join up at my forum X3 we need some good tuts to uplaod to gt and p2l
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its XD except with a kitty X3 kitty lips/wiskers thingamajigers
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Cool.! Glad you found it useful.^_^
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Wow, thanks for that little tutorial. That's very interesting.
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No Problem! I don't have many art tricks, but I love to share em
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