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Ayedeas — Lazarus - Painted
#grullo #horse #lazarus #model #modelhorse #resin #undead #zombie #zombiehorse #artistresin
Published: 2017-01-18 18:19:10 +0000 UTC; Views: 1681; Favourites: 50; Downloads: 0
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Description
Meet Lazarus, my first zombie horse resin painted up into a dashing medium grullo with a modest amount of white so as to not overload the piece. His gore is intricately painted with multiple different layers and shades of paint to give depth and a dynamic look that emulates reality, from the faded, dead flesh and muscle to the glossy, deep, dark blood that oozes from the wounds. Despite his [Un]dead nature, there's something calm and welcoming about Lazarus.
Laz was painted almost entirely in acrylics, with some minor details done in watercolour pencils and gloss varnish applied after a final matte sealing. He was painted in "flat" colours to give his coat a dull look complimentary of a zombie. Extreme care was taken to make sure blood was in all the right places, and that it flowed and dripped in a believable way.
Lazarus is up for offers over on Model Horse Sales Pages , and his current highest offer is $1500
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Comments: 29
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Your awesome artwork is featured here
fav.me/dazcfea
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Thank you!! I appreciate it
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Amazing! i love those details on rib and skull,Great job!
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Fantastic in every way. Great sculpting, painting and details
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Sometimes I wish I could have luck and get a resin... I haven't any. :/ But my skills aren't good enough for painting one myself, I don't want to ruin anyone's perfect sculpting job.
I again adore a lot your skill with sculpting anatomy, wounds, blood - and those colors. Painting smooth blendings with acrylics is possible but not easy with it's fast drying (or then people use some liquids who slow the drying). Also grullos and other natural colors are really awesome, I have liked them a lot recently.
I like his wounds and how their 'age' is visible (less fresh blood). Not all people understand or remember that blood and wounds are not always so bright red. Here I drool how you have painted that bleeding blood, looks so nicely semi-transparent and that it had partly dyed the fur. 8)
Also, visible tendons!
Another thing I of course pondered was... Do you make any tack for him?
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Thank you so much! I really appreciate that you noticed the little nuances I've put in there! In some areas, like the ribs and open wounds, I tried to coagulate the blood or give it a coagulated look, because that's where it would pool and congeal. The paint that I use to make blood actually does a pretty good job of congealing on its own, so all I had to do in some cases was mix it, let it dry a little, and then scramble it up and blot it on. It really does make a nice effect!
I haven't yet, only because I don't have the money to buy the leather I need to make riding tack, or the buckles I need to make a halter. I have two copies of my own (well, one is the original sculpture, but I'm counting it anyway) that I will be painting for myself, and they will definitely be getting tack at some point! I'll be making them halters at the very least, which will have mud and blood on them, especially at the part where the blood drips from the bullet wound in his face, since that would no doubt rub off on the halter.
I'm really excited to make tack for them, though!
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Ooo self-coagulating acrylic paint! In the way blood does... I once used some old paint to make fake flesh (not to an animal figurine still, I should) as it wasn't good for real painting anymore. Blood is interesting thing as it's tint depends from how deep and fresh it is. Must test one day that technique you explained; no more need to avoid letting the paint dry too much!
It's sad how money runs so much people's life, even the hobbies... I personally like a lot to make and look 'worn' tack in miniature, it also is another thing what asks skill. I've sanded the leather and even just much handling and fitting to many models is enough to get the 'just bought' look away often (just broke an old halter here, so...).
I also ponder, that if you once make bridles for Lazarus, maybe the bits have mouthpieces then too? It's also sure that the noseband is going to be rightly placed as the skull is so easily seen (nosebands often get placed too low). 
I'm excited to see!
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Yep! Certain paints are better at it than others. If you have a paint that you can peel off of certain surfaces when it dries and it's plasticy, it'll do it pretty well. the Badger Minitaire paints are especially good (those are what I use.) The chalky paints like apple barrel won't do it though, because they don't really gel up.
It is, I hate budgeting. I have these straps on one of my model saddles that I forget to oil and they have that dry, used, weathered look that I think would work well for zombie tack. So when I make zombie tack, I may shove them in a bag of salt to dry them out and weather them before oiling them (to preserve the leather from future wear.) The straps are especially easy to wear in, I've found, because my bridles and such always start wearing out first.
The noseband is actually SUPER easy to fit, even on a normal model. People often put it too low out of ignorance. A lot of people aren't taught the proper fit of the noseband, and will put it down by the mouth because that's what they know. (animated horse shows aren't helping this problem, either.) I only found out the proper fit maybe three years ago? At most four. So that's a testament to just how little people actually teach. Other times it's because the noseband itself doesn't fit in the proper position. I have an english bridle on my horse skull right now where the noseband doesn't fit properly, and it was the same on my first horse. So it has to sit lower in order to buckle.
I marked the noseband and the cheekbone on this one because the quality is so low that it's hard to see lol
Yeah I'll definitely have to do some carriage zombies and pacers! It would be fun to make zombie harnesses!!
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I possibly have that right kind of paints, I use them for model painting anyway and they dry to look and feel quite plastic-like. I'm still yet in a less inspired feeling with all art I should do, so I must wait the right moment to test how it behaves as aged blood. (For some reason I still finish all dolls I have started here now... But nothing else I don't.)
I am happy to own some leathers who have thin, matta and a bit worn surface already, and I love to use it for all tack: 2.bp.blogspot.com/-VB1su40mmJM… When thinned, it's extremely thin and weak and gets quickly a bit dead-like... In bad and good way... Hmm, "wear in" - I learned new things from English language, seemingly! 
About noseband fitting I have learned only that it never should be placed on the nasal bone but a bit above of it, just to avoid breaking it. And to allow good breathing. I've seen many photos where especially hackamore nosebands have been set really too low... Another nasty mistake is to adjust any noseband too tightly. And weirdly, that noseband fitting is a problem in model horse world too, more with halters than bridles still.
I don't know how horse people "start" their horse life there where you live, I think it's a lot different from how it's in Finland. One of the first things when you go to riding lesson is to learn how to fit tack rightly (or then that's just what I hope and feel). Not saying that every rider could still stay as careful as they were when starting...
A whole harness team of carriage zombies could look great!
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It's the first thing we're taught in lessons as well, but the problem is that a lot of people don't actually know the proper fit of tack, and you don't need to be licensed or have gone to school to be a riding instructor, so a lot of the knowledge people are passing on is incorrect or mislead because that's what they were taught to be true. When I was taking lessons, I was never taught what the proper placement of the noseband was. Since the pony I rode had his own tack, it never had to be adjusted so it was always in the right place and I just sorta assumed all bridles were like that. (I was like 6 or 7 at the time.) Even as I progressed through different lessons and instructors, I didn't learn the proper placement. All I was taught is that the halter shouldn't be too low on the horse's face lest they slip a hoof through the noseband and throw themselves. That was the extent of my knowledge, so the noseband would typically be set halfway between the cheek and the muzzle, like I have on my first horse and the skull that I pictured in my last reply.
That's not really correct, though. It wasn't until I was reading up on how to make halters for model horses that I actually learned the proper fit of a noseband. Unless it's a drop-type noseband which is designed to sit low next to the bit, it needs to rest against the cheek of the horse, like these:
Most people won't fit them that way though, and will usually have it like this, if not right by the bit:
Another mistake is that people don't understand the functionality of a noseband. Especially true in the crank-type nosebands, the noseband of a bridle is there to restrain the horse from opening its mouth, which could allow it to be able to slip the bit under its tongue, or to avoid the contact of the bit altogether. Some horses are happier with this than others (just like some horses prefer flash bridles to normal bridles because the flash carries the bit for them and they can relax their jaw, if used properly.) So because of this, they'll either crank it too tight, or it won't be set tight enough. They won't find that sweet spot that it's supposed to be set at.
Yeah, it could!!
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Everything people need is to read books or internet and listen to people who have knowledge about horse tack. :/ Books and internet were my way to learn, and I also have just tried to use my sense to understand why things are as they are...
Weird in nosebands is that some people use it without reason, what sometimes is just nothing else than too much tack to take care of; if it's adjusted loosely, it should not harm (except if it does rub the horse or something), but keeping it attached to bridle just because of being a general part of them is weird. Some ride without it at all, some use bitless. And some use just halter. I think that quite everything is possible as long as you know and trust the horse, not to say that safety couldn't come first. Because it always comes. 
My best horse-learning times were ages ago when I was about 13, when I learned with one therapy horse. Rode him bitless and bareback, no bits, no stirrups (reins attached to loose noseband and I sat on western saddle pad with a vaulting girth). I don't know why it was the only horse ever I have trusted so much and felt so comfortable sitting on his back, everyone else makes me feel quite reserved. :/ I've planned for long time to go to meet that horsie again after years as he just is the best ever to me.
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Honestly, I would bypass books and internet altogether until you've learned the basics from an actual, reputable horseman. Not that you can't learn from books or internet, it's just better to get first-hand experience and learn the methods that work for you (or that don't work for you) so that you can siphon out the bullshit and get the useful information that actually pertains to you.
Being with an actual trainer is 10,000 times more productive than trying to learn it on your own. The internet holds so many different opinions and testaments to what works and what doesn't, what's right and what's wrong, what's abuse and what's ethical, and a lot of it just has to do with opinion and personal views. I know people who won't lay a finger on their horse, no matter what, and I know people who have a crop or bat at the ready for anything. Is one right over the other? No. They simply use different training methods. I, personally, lean toward the latter, but there has to be a balance. If you correct the horse with a whip for everything, then you're doing more harm than good. Likewise, if you never reprimand your horse, he's going to learn he can push you around, and you'll end up in the hospital if you're not careful. I've been on both ends of this training spectrum, and I've found that being in the middle is the best spot. Correct with a whip when needed, sure, but sometimes it's best to just stop, and try again. If it's not a dangerous behaviour or the horse doesn't need that little smack to encourage him to move forward, then it's not necessary to whip the horse. But, that's one opinion of many on the internet, and that's why I find it best to get first-hand experience with a reputable trainer in order to make your own mind up about what type of rider and trainer you want to be. (By the way, none of this was directed at you specifically, I mean "you" in the most general and wide-sweeping way.)
Like I was saying, the noseband has a purpose and if it's going to be used, it better be fitted properly. If someone wants to keep the noseband loose, they might as well remove it altogether because it'll be that useless anyway. A loose noseband bounces around, can irritate the horse, and detracts from the overall presentation. At home this might not seem like such a big deal, but it really is better to just take it off than to have it be an unnecessary and irritating piece of tack. Some people prefer the look of a noseband - myself included - but if it's not serving its purpose or if it doesnt fit, it doesn't need to be on the bridle. I rode my last horse in an english bridle and I took off the noseband because it didn't fit. He certainly could've used a properly-fitted noseband, but it wasn't the end of the world that I didn't have one.
The type of bridle that's used is generally up to personal preference of the horse and rider alike. I personally prefer a proper bridle, but I don't like certain bits. If it's not a snaffle or a really mild shank (Kimberwick bits for instance) then I think it's unnecessary. If you need to ride your horse with high leverage in order to control it, the error is you, not the horse. That's why I have problems keeping firm contact on the bit, because I rode in a high-leverage bit for 7 years and made my hands feather light in order to counter it. (That's one of the things I disagreed with my trainer on, and that's exactly what I was talking about in the first paragraph; I developed my own ideals out of what I had been taught.) So now I have a super light contact with the bit (almost none at all actually, which you can see in that picture of Dakota I shared, how the reins are drooping,) and that's one thing I need to work on.
Any horse can ride in a bit if worked with enough, but some people find bridles unethical and will use a bitless. Some people simply find it unnecessary to use a bit if you don't have to, which I can understand. I've ridden in hackamores and bridles alike, and I simply prefer bridles over hackamores. That's just one more preference I gained from personal experience. That's not to say I won't try any other hackamores, though; I actually want to get a bitless in my arsenal to use as a bridge between bitted and bitless in an effort to achieve total tacklessness, just because that's a goal of mine.
Your riding skill may not be up to par with the level that you want to be at. That horse was a therapy horse which means he takes care of his rider. You never got the challenge of a rowdy horse to teach you how to sit a buck or not get thrown by a rear, or how to fall. I've found, based on observations and personal experience, that people who have never ridden a problem horse or otherwise a hot or spooky horse (Or who have limited experience with such), will be more afraid to ride more advanced horses than those of us who have. (And there's nothing wrong with that!) I have literally grown up learning how to train problem horses; I've been bucked off, thrown around like a ragdoll, and charged at more times than I can count. Riding problem horses are almost a second nature to me at this point, because I've never owned a level-headed bombproof schoolmaster, which is the opposite for most people. But as a result, I'm not afraid to ride anything, because I know I can handle myself. Having been thrown into the thick of it helped me out in that regard. Basically all I'm getting at is, you need to ride more. Ride all kinds of different horses and learn their personalities. Every horse has something in common with another and once you learn what makes them tick, you can ride just about anything with relative ease. That's one reason I'm so excited to go to this college, because I'll be working with and riding so many different horses daily. (And in saying this I'm not saying that I'm the best rider out there - FAR from it!! I have a LOT to work on, but I gained so much knowledge from my experiences that I know what to do.)
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