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Qarrezel — Mask Making Demo Part C
Published: 2008-11-06 16:29:04 +0000 UTC; Views: 75672; Favourites: 757; Downloads: 0
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Description
An overview to explain how we mold and cast our mask bases.WEAR CHEMICAL RESISTANT GLOVES, A RESPIRATOR, AND PROTECTIVE CLOTHING!
I'll say it again:
WEAR CHEMICAL RESISTANT GLOVES, A RESPIRATOR, AND PROTECTIVE CLOTHING!
DO NOT DO THIS NEAR FOOD SURFACES! DO NOT EAT OR DRINK NEAR YOUR WORK AREA! DO NOT HANDLE OR USE THESE CHEMICALS NEAR CHILDREN OR PETS!
If I see anyone else blatantly ignoring basic safety precautions, I absolutely will take this tutorial down.
PLEASE READ the whole description! It explains all the steps, lists materials used here, and links to smooth-on.com where I buy my rubbers and resins.
I WILL NOT answer any questions the answers to which are in the descriptions or can easily be answered with a visit to smooth-on's website (or even a quick google search). I will also not detail this process further.
Description of steps:
16.) Now, I cast the resin mask form. I will not be using a mold release agent for this casting, since the silicone has excellent release properties on its own. However, a latex or urethane mold would require release agent. I measure out equal parts of resin part A, part B, and Filler* (the cups are labeled in the photo).
17.) I mix the three components together thoroughly, and pour them into the mold. I "slush cast" or rotary cast the liquid resin, coating the interior of the mold in an even layer of resin. The resin begins to gel in about 2 minutes.
18.) Once layer one has set up, I mix up layer two. It has all of the same components, except that I also added a couple drops of black pigment (cosmetic preference, a dark-colored interior looks more finished to me).
19.) Layer two is applied the same as the first layer, and left to cure fully. If any places seem thin, I may apply a third layer, but it's usually not necessary.
20.) About 15 minutes later, I demold a perfect lightweight copy of the original model (this particular casting weighed in at 4.1 oz).
Part A: [link] Part B: [link]
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* Ure-Fil III (completely optional!), a powdered filler which serves two major purposes - one, it makes this slush-casting (or sometimes brush-on) method much easier, and it also reduces the weight of the casting. Of course, it also decreases the cost of each casting by a little bit (since each casting then requires that much less resin), but that's mainly just a plus for me.
Materials used:
Smooth-cast 300 urethane resin (could also use smooth-cast 325 or ONYX) from Smooth-On
Ure-Fil III filler (Optional)
So-Strong black urethane resin pigment (Optional) (not necessary with ONYX)
Chemical-resistant nitrile gloves
paper cups and popsicle sticks (for mixing)
To learn more about the materials I'm using, and to learn more about mold making and casting basics, visit Smooth-On.com: [link]
Related content
Comments: 204
may I ask what resin you use/ link me? I'm lame at choosing resin :'D
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Out of curiosity, what type of resin did you use? Cause in the photo it looked like two part Rebound 25? And how does a resin mask hold up to actually being worn? Are they pretty strong and lightweight enough for wearing purposes?
Awesome tutorial, really helpful thank you!
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wow .... now if only i had money right now to go get the stuff to do this. I'd luv to be able to try this method when i get around to re-doing my fursuit head because i want a more realistic look.
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Hi Qarrzel, I'm ready to try casting my first mask and I have a small question: If brushing on the resin what is the best way to clean the brushes? I have some very crappy brushes that I would like to use again and I've heard that rubbing alcohol is a cheap cleaner.
Also, can we see the next part if there is one?
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As far as I know, there is no way to remove resin from brushes. Use disposables.
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D: Well, poop. Good thing I've got a pack of 99 cent disposable-brushes then.
Thanks for the information Qarrezel.
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I'm not sure about this resin, but I've made resin eyes with Diggers resin before ( [link] ) and you can use acetone to clean it up. I'm not sure if it'll work, but you can always give it a try, you'll just have to clean the brush before the resin sets. You should be able to get some from your local hardware store, but it might just be cheaper to use disposable brushes...
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What kind of resin is it?
And did you know were i can find/got it in Germany?
I have no idea how i can buy the right resin.
I hope my english is not too bad
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Please see our quote calculator [link]
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Im so sorry, I didnt see it (the calculator) untill after I sent the comment
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No problem! I just launched it, so mainly I'm trying to promote it.
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" it's a powdered filler, which serves two major purposes - one, it makes this slush-casting (or sometimes brush-on) method much easier, and it also reduces the weight of the casting. Of course, it also decreases the cost of each casting by a little bit (since each casting then requires that much less resin), but that's mainly just a plus for me."
That's all it does. Can't go into much more detail than that.
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If you use the Smooth-Cast ONYX, do you need to use filler?
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Very similar to the way I make my masks.
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Hi! Awesome work! I'm also a sculptor, and I've been wanting to do some costume stuff (including armor and such), and possibly some masks....but I've not had the time to learn the mold making process and what materials are best. I did work in an FX shop for a while and learned the basics, so your tutorials here were able to sorta solidify what I already knew XD. Thanks for posting them! I have a couple questions on what materials you're using though...
I've used both resin and silicone from smooth-on as well. Is the silicone you used for this mold OO-MOO (the purple kind), mixed with a filler? What type of filler, and was it also in equal parts? (I don't have a scale for mold making, which limits me on materials a bit).
And regarding the resin (I also use their pigments, I mold/cast figures and pendants I sculpt)...what filler, and which resin did you use from Smooth-On? I've always been curious about using a filler for larger sculpts...but I've been uncertain how the stuff sets up, and didn't want any curing problems.
And one final question (sorry, lol!)...to "slush" cast, are you just doing that by hand, or using some sort of machine?
Thanks for your time, and awesome artwork!
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No filler in the OOMOO, just a little thivex.
The resin here was smoothcast 300 with urefil 3 filler. However we've since come to prefer smoothcast ONYX with no filler.
Slush-casting is just by hand in this case. There's often some brushing too, although usually that's no fancier than sticking your gloved hand in there and smearing the stuff around a bit.
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Awesome! Thanks for getting back to me so fast 
I've never heard of thivex...that's just what it's called, and you mix a dash into the OOMOO, and it doesn't effect the curing process?
I haven't heard of the ONYX stuff either, but I'll have to check it out if it's a material that doesn't require a pressure pot or scale
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Thivex is under silicone accessories at SmoothOn. It tends to make OOMOO thicken and cure faster. It has different effects on platinum silicones.
ONYX is a new plastic from Smooth-on. 1:1 by volume, no pressure needed. VERY strong and hard which is why we prefer it.
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Awesome, thanks
Do you think that ONYX stuff would work well for finely detailed tiny pieces, like chess pieces or pendants? This is a werewolf chess piece I sculpted...that's only about 2 inches tall, still need to make a block mold for the little guy. [link]
I'll visit Smooth-On's site again and take a peek though. I stopped using their products because I found some better stuff for the small pieces I make (better resin). I also found a silicone I like better, that's stronger but still an equal parts mix. It's a little more expensive, but worth the money for tiny figures with strong undercuts (the rubber doesn't wear out as fast or tear as easy as OOMOO). If you have any interest I'll link you, but for masks and stuff...I'm sure the OOMOO is fine since those aren't a rough shape for a mold.
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As far as my experience goes, ONYX can capture exceptionally fine detail. Of course, it's always good to use what you're most comfortable using.
OOMOO is not my favorite rubber by a wide margin. We don't use it much anymore, unless we need something really fast. I much prefer Smooth-On's various platinum cure silicones (especially the Dragon Skin series) when I want a mold that will last.
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How do you make your hinges?
Do you just cast two long rectangles in resin, and connect them with a nut and bolt?
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Basically, yeah. Although I use a chicago bolt/screwpost because it works better than a regular nut and bolt.
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Okay, now do you think if I were to cast a sheet of resin and then cut out the pieces I need for the hinge, would that work?
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You could do that, but I personally would go ahead and just make a mold of the shape you need to save yourself the trouble and waste of cutting pieces out.
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Okay, thank you so much for all the help!
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This is probably a stupid question but what kind of texture does the final copy have? Is it rubber-like?
Also, you're so gifted, the gallery is just amazing!
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! Sorry once more. My father is against the making, because he says, that using resin is dangerous. I don't he's completely wrong, but could you tell me more about the health risks?
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The Materials Safety Data Sheet should tell you everything you need to know: [link]
Basically it boils down to wearing protective clothing (including nitrile gloves), having an open window, cleaning the work environment thoroughly, and disposing of materials safely. There are many more dangerous substances out there, but it's true that this stuff can't be treated lightly.
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Or is there something else I could use instead of resin? Like some more of silicone rubber? Or would it just crack?
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Paper mache would not be a bad alternative, actually. Use wood glue instead of flour paste in the mix.
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Thank you very much for this. I think I've gotta rent a space for working then!
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Hello again. I found the answer to my earlier question from the comments, but now I couldn't find the answer from there.
So. [link] <--- Over there is the resin I'm going to buy, BUT. Which size should i choose? Trial or gallon unit? I think it is that trial, but what do you think?
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Do you need to have some kind of power tool to cut the resin?
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A dremel with a cut-off wheel works very nicely.
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ok. I think im getting a dremel tool for christmas, so that works out.
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What kind of materials would you give to a first timer?
How much would the cheapest* filler cost?
How would you make horns like here here, here, and here do you add them into the mold, or glue them seperatly (if glued, hot glued or super glued?)
Last question, i know there's a lot T-T
what do you use to make smooth parts like the 'scales' in the second picture?
Thank you so much for taking the time to read/answer these questions! Hugs
*cheap, but still works
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The filler I recommend is extremely cheap - probably the cheapest part of the whole process. I don't recommend any alternative fillers as I don't know whether or not they would work. If you were hesitant to buy the filler, I would say that rather than looking for an alternative, you should just eliminate filler all together.
Horns are definitely molded separately (any protruding piece should be). They are attached with Chicago bolts/screwposts (female side implanted into the bottom of the horn). Glue does not hold.
In that image, the scales were made from carefully cut and heavily painted foamies.
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Okay, thank you so much for answering all of my questions, it was relly helpful!
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Is this the resin you used? [link]
Although it looks as if it's clear, and you used a white resin right?
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That's the stuff I use now, yeah. It is clear. With filler, it turns light grey.
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Ahh I see, alrighty thank you very much
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This helps alot! I started getting into BJD recently and just finding out any way of diy molds and casting helps so much!
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When will you be uploading a tutorial of the second step?
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