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shoomlah β€” How to be an 18th Cent. Gent

Published: 2007-12-25 06:54:11 +0000 UTC; Views: 58400; Favourites: 1778; Downloads: 1096
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Description The first half of an instructional piece done for class- I planned to do the next half on gentility and courtesies but, of course, I'm in college. I never have time. I meant to make him look less like, oh, I don't know, a man from the 20th century gussied up in 18th century attire, but I was more rushed than I would have liked on his face.

Quick Cautionary Note: this was for a project in class, and is in no way meant as something to be referenced by other people. If I was putting together a guide to costuming that was an actual tutorial, I'd be referencing period illustrations and extant garments all over the place. This is decent, sure, but you're much better off looking at the real stuff.

(pen & ink)
-C
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Comments: 165

vinssownsyou [2007-12-27 20:49:03 +0000 UTC]

This is neat, I really like the technical, yet very artistic way you took to present the costume. Very well done, I like it alot.

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dumazuri [2007-12-27 20:12:52 +0000 UTC]

Wow, this is really cool!
Just a question, though- I thought that in the 18th century, the 's' had a sort of f-shape, unless it was put at the end of the word, or followed another 's.' Here it took on the modern sigma shape (as a throwback to greekness and whatnot).
I'm not sure though- i bet you know a lot more about this sort of thing than me... what do you think?

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GrandK [2007-12-27 09:31:28 +0000 UTC]

Ho I love this study!

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SurlyQueen [2007-12-27 02:11:50 +0000 UTC]

Nice hatching, especially on the legs. Hee! I can't wait for the courtesies one!

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quartervirus-archive [2007-12-27 00:12:31 +0000 UTC]

Top notch, wot wot!

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explosive-toaster [2007-12-27 00:09:18 +0000 UTC]

*drool*
This is unbelievably helpful. I never quite knew how their hair worked, but now I do!

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Zteif [2007-12-26 22:08:09 +0000 UTC]

supa fly!

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Ysidro [2007-12-26 19:02:49 +0000 UTC]

you make me speechless

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boum In reply to ??? [2007-12-26 16:18:44 +0000 UTC]

Is it handwritten? It's impressive!

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rotsentu [2007-12-26 15:07:33 +0000 UTC]

good reference. thanks!

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tehuti In reply to ??? [2007-12-26 14:24:23 +0000 UTC]

This is so cool! I have a Redcoat character and keep meaning to figure out how to draw him all done up but haven't done it yet so this is interesting to look at.

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Athelind [2007-12-26 13:57:52 +0000 UTC]

[I]I meant to make him look less like, oh, I don't know, a man from the 20th century gussied up in 18th century attire...[/I]

Funny, I was thinking that he looked very Jeffersonian.

Nice, nice piece; I've actually been looking for a good, clear reference on powdered wig styles.

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ColonelLiamRoss [2007-12-26 06:47:19 +0000 UTC]

The layout is excellent, not to mention the shading technique! Your art never ceases to awe me, especially when you tackle the 18th century. Lovely variety of wigs!

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EmperorNortonII [2007-12-26 06:29:47 +0000 UTC]

I like 18th century fashions!

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Imalshen [2007-12-26 06:21:17 +0000 UTC]

Hahaha, brilliant!

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Kloe [2007-12-26 06:10:00 +0000 UTC]

hawt....

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TehLing In reply to ??? [2007-12-26 05:29:24 +0000 UTC]

Such a wonderful abundance of wigs! Excellent.

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wingedsiamese In reply to ??? [2007-12-26 05:18:41 +0000 UTC]

I'm interested in some things you are showing here.
You reference a tricorn, I admit I have never seen a period reference of it being called that, I've only seen it being referred too as a Cocked Hat. Mind you modern day people do call it a tricorn.

I haven’t seen many civilian accounts of round hats with side upturned; I’ve seen it for military, specifically later 1776 British uniforms. Jockey caps are similar as well as the 1780s gentlemen hunting hats that are flat on the top and curled at the sides.
Just interested in where you found that reference, I’ve always liked that fashion in military just never seen it in a period sources for gentry

Also, do you have an era of fashion in the18th century are you specially showing?
I'm just intrigued by the frock coat showing a standing collar which was more fashionable by 1790s for civilians. Military is a different story, specifically the Royal Navy. Yet the cuffs are more 1750s by the length of them. The cut of your frock coat and the sweep is more 1780-90s as well as it being double breasted!
I have never seen a portrait or an original coat being double breasted with that size of a cuff.
I’m interested in your sources on this?

The waistcoat with a standing collar is very 1790s, I notice a reoccurring theme, is this for 1790s fashions? Is this more of the era you are attempting to show and draw?
I admit I’m biased when I think general 18th century, I think more of the 1750s, but that’s my own tastes
I have seen a double-breasted waistcoat in 1770s for civilians, but they do not have any standing collars. Aside from maritime fashions, double-breasted waistcoats go back further, but again, no collar on the waistcoats.

I applaud you on the wigs, not many people concentrate on hairstyles. Heck, in historical re-enacting/living history interpretation that is a downfall of people having modern day hairstyles under their hats.

I would maaaaybe note that by late 18th century wigs were becoming unfashionable, as well as hairstyles becoming shorter and seeing less of the side locks in the later half of the century.
By 1790s only older men were wearing wigs or even powdering their hair.

I’m just intrigued by what you are showing, specifically to people as a guide line, I’ve never wanted to, for the fact that fashion changes so much by each decade in the 18th century, so showing a generic guide is a little misleading. IMO (please take no offense, I think the artwork itself is fantastic, I’m just intrigued by your source material, 18th century material culture is a passion of mine! )
But hey, it helps people to not put those archaic 17th century fashions on 18th century attire that happens all too often in β€˜irate’ art.

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shoomlah In reply to wingedsiamese [2007-12-26 21:03:46 +0000 UTC]

I was definitely aiming for about 1785-90- I prefer the later eighteenth century to the early/mid, so it's fun meeting people who know what they're talking about. This was meant much less as a reference for people as it was a project for me- I find it interesting that people are interpreting it as such, because if I was going to give people a sincere how-to on eighteenth century fashion this would be far, far different.

There are period mentions of the tricorn as a tricorn and, as to the militaristic hat, I just wanted to have more than two on there. More of an aesthetic choice than anything. And wigs? I just like wigs. I didn't specify the period so I could get in some of my preferred aspects of eighteenth cent. fashion for the project itself.

-C

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wingedsiamese In reply to shoomlah [2007-12-26 21:42:57 +0000 UTC]

lol, I admit after 1780s starts looking so stuffy to me, looks great on tall, lean men... I like the looser fitted look of the 1750s and the full coat tails.
Though double-breasted Waistcoats are quite fetching!
I made silk one with wool lining for my riding habit based off 3 portraits of women’s Riding/Walking habits.

I'm interested where did you see the period reference of tricorn?
I am curious since this has been a heated topic in Living History world; I even have corrected people in school programs about Tricorn to cocked hat.
My roommate whom works for the USS constitution museum and he is a bit of a hat buff (seeing as he is the only person making hats in historically correct way) have had quite a few discussions about where the name tricorn has occurred, I was under the impression it was 19th century term.
Only terms differing in hats in the 18th century was cap, hat and cocked hat, cocking on the hat was just what era of fashion as opposing naming it.

Do you mind finding the reference for me? I'm very intrigued.

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shoomlah In reply to wingedsiamese [2007-12-27 00:44:48 +0000 UTC]

Have I ever mentioned how tempted I've been to draw fanart for you, by the by? Because... There's some serious temptation there. I've always loved your attention to costume detail. I've actually been looking into making a riding habit myself, since I love men's costumes but am far too lady-shaped to try to pass as male. I love the portrait of Lady Worsley by Reynolds, in the red coat-esque riding habit, so I'd love to make something based off of that. Mmmm.

It may be nineteenth century, so you could be completely correct on that one, as I'd much rather trust you than my specific memory. It would've been in talk with the taylors at Williamsburg, but I last saw them a year ago since my sister moved on from working there to Mount Vernon... I'd be very cautious to second-guess your references.

So you're Massachusetts-based? I'm in Providence at school. Well, not right now, but I usually am.
-C

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wingedsiamese In reply to shoomlah [2007-12-28 00:53:11 +0000 UTC]

Thank you it’s a healthy combination of fun art and my working art for articles and research guilds. Though I’m the first person to say β€˜seriously it’s a cat, I don’t even take it that serious’
Canadian transplanted to Mas now, hence my fascination with red uniforms and 1750s

As I stated modern people use the term left and right for a guide line it's understandable for clarification, specially since cocked hat evolves so much from tricorn to bicorn.
I just admit if you could find a reference to it be amazing since I haven't found one before the 19th century. I'm the type with research I always ask since hey just because _I_ haven't seen it or my research circles haven’t doesn't mean it isn't true, which is why I asked if you seen the reference and where.
I will openly state good majority of my research I do is for 1755s to 1780s uniforms specifically British Marines.
All the uniform research I’ve done I’ve seen clear orders and receipts for Caps, Hats and Cocked Hats but never seen tricorn referenced even if 1760s to 1770 cocking of the hat changed so dramatically they didn’t seem to rename the hat, yet OMG I wish they did then many arguments would be solved on headwear. (You have no idea the nightmare about head wear is for pre royal British marines is)

Passing off, as a man isn't that hard as long as you remember your body language and how you present yourself. I'm friends with some crazy (silly)Civil War re enactor ladies that take it to the extreme gave me many pointers about "Men walk tall and full, women keep their arms and chest low" and it's helped a great deal with my presentation.

Riding Habits are awesome! I made my coat pattern based on Lady Worsley since the sweep of her coat is just SO cool! Have you seen Dama a caballo by Jose Campeche? Her outfit is so awesome; it’s one of the first habits I seen with turn backs used.
Original is TINY, which is frustrating when I seen it on display I would ADORE making a habit based on it
Only problem I have with habits I can't justify wearing them much since I only wear mine when I can have a reason why an officer’s wife would be at that event, such as Yorktown I wore it but Officers wives WERE at Yorktown. They were very much a European fashion till the generic 1780s non-uniform based pattern was popular.

=^,,^-

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nfearnley [2007-12-26 02:55:21 +0000 UTC]

very nice

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gurgledog [2007-12-26 02:04:06 +0000 UTC]

This is quite incredible. Is there a main source that you used for reference? I'd like to check it out.

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tsunami-ryuu In reply to ??? [2007-12-25 21:45:58 +0000 UTC]

Love this guide, especially the part on hairstyles. Quite informative.

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Rainblossom In reply to ??? [2007-12-25 21:09:08 +0000 UTC]

GENIUS.

Now if only we could get the men to pay attention in a class like that.

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UnforgivenDecay [2007-12-25 20:55:28 +0000 UTC]

This would/will be great for a reference, would you mind?

P.S so will you be doing a female version of this?

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shoomlah In reply to UnforgivenDecay [2007-12-26 21:04:57 +0000 UTC]

I'd like to point out that if I'm too make this into a reference for others- and not a personal project- I'd probably do a lot more with dates and clarification. You can use it loosely as a reference, but please don't take my word as gospel.

-C

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UnforgivenDecay In reply to shoomlah [2007-12-26 21:17:25 +0000 UTC]

okey ^_^ I've just had trouble finding (loosely) what men wear, and all the layers. I was thinking of doing some Sweeney Todd art, and his outfit in the moive fits what this is.

I'll send you a link if I ever do anything.

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shoomlah In reply to UnforgivenDecay [2007-12-27 00:49:43 +0000 UTC]

Nononono, Sweeney Todd is firmly 1800's, nineteenth century- they still wear waiscoats into that period (and Sweeney's does, indeed, resemble the one I've drawn), but they're wearing trousers and differently-shaped jackets by then. Granted, the film is somewhat of a hodgepodge of 19th century decades and doesn't stick to a specific year, but it's definitely not 1790's.

-C

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UnforgivenDecay In reply to shoomlah [2007-12-27 02:43:37 +0000 UTC]

Hum, your right. Good thing I'm talking to you &_&. The waistcoats look the same, but you're right... the trousers are different. Its sad that I did not spot that out before. What colours did they stick to, or more, do you know what was in fashion then?

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shoomlah In reply to UnforgivenDecay [2007-12-27 07:32:17 +0000 UTC]

[link] good, long and extensive source of links for the victorian period- should be helpful in your research!

-X

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UnforgivenDecay In reply to shoomlah [2007-12-28 01:50:01 +0000 UTC]

Thanks!

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hellcorpceo [2007-12-25 20:49:49 +0000 UTC]

This is very cool! I love the cutaway on his frock coat so we can see his waistcoat and shirt. I wish some of the details of his attire were a little easier to make out--the crosshatching is beautiful, but it makes some things, particularly his lapels and what's going on with his shirt collar, a little unclear. Overall wonderful work (your drawings never disappoint). I'd love to see more!

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charpal [2007-12-25 20:33:19 +0000 UTC]

This is pretty spiffy.

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gardendoor In reply to ??? [2007-12-25 20:29:53 +0000 UTC]

Gorgeous! I like the pen and crosshatching; it looks like the style of posterboard illustration from that time period.

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LadyNorthstar In reply to ??? [2007-12-25 19:41:45 +0000 UTC]

wowo, perfect!
and useful, also...

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zenithfoxie [2007-12-25 19:41:41 +0000 UTC]

I think I love you ;.;

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Duessa [2007-12-25 17:31:29 +0000 UTC]

Nicely done, wow!

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LeSoldatMort [2007-12-25 14:44:48 +0000 UTC]

MMmm this is perfect C:

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lila-may-qt [2007-12-25 13:51:27 +0000 UTC]

Wow - looks like something appropriate for my "history of fashion" textbook Nice one!

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Kelii [2007-12-25 13:48:45 +0000 UTC]

very excellent!

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adiAdii In reply to ??? [2007-12-25 13:36:04 +0000 UTC]

i love it! keep it up

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LeonaWindrider [2007-12-25 13:06:52 +0000 UTC]

Love it!

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Dave-Moongazer [2007-12-25 12:41:14 +0000 UTC]

Very nice

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croaky [2007-12-25 12:18:53 +0000 UTC]

Now this, is great stuff.

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CostumesbyCourtney [2007-12-25 11:52:41 +0000 UTC]

Very excellent, I love all things Steampunk.

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shoomlah In reply to CostumesbyCourtney [2007-12-26 21:07:59 +0000 UTC]

Not sure if this qualifies as steampunk, but thanks.

-C

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CostumesbyCourtney In reply to shoomlah [2007-12-27 04:37:43 +0000 UTC]

Anything 1800's classifies as Steampunk to me.

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shoomlah In reply to CostumesbyCourtney [2007-12-27 07:30:27 +0000 UTC]

...This is eighteenth century. That would be late 1700's.

-C

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