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xothique — The end of an apprenticeship.

Published: 2009-03-01 12:55:55 +0000 UTC; Views: 4409; Favourites: 131; Downloads: 127
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Description While I was in Venice I made it my mission to find some of the various small mask studios that still produce hand-made papier mache masks. I spent many happy hours wandering the streets searching out new mask-makers and gazing in wonder at the beautiful things they created. And I turned a corner.
For many years, and to many people, Venice has set the gold standard of the mask-maker's art. I've exhibited my work in the past and had people admire what I've done, then ask me if I've been to Italy because 'that's where the proper mask makers are.' I've also been told more than once that my masks are lovely, but that people would rather buy a 'real mask' from Venice.
So, travelling the streets of La Serenissima, I was expecting a very high standard of craftmanship. And for the most part, I found it. Many of the masks created by individual artisans with small studios were indeed very beautiful, and very well made, and I added several to my own mask collection.
However...
The standard of workmanship varied from exquisite to downright shoddy, if I'm completely honest. Many of the larger mask shops were selling masks which had clearly been rushed out for Carnival - they were not finished on the back, and in some cases the bare paper was left exposed. There were mis-shapen masks, masks which were structurally poor and masks which had obvious mistakes that were covered up with gold leaf. There were bubbles and runs in the gesso and thumb prints in the varnish. I walked into one mask-maker's studio and was told by the person I was with that there was nothing in his shop that I couldn't do better.
We went into another shop, in costume, and the proprietor asked us where in Venice we had purchased our masks.
And there was my turning point. That was it, the end of my apprenticeship.

On my return, I decided to set myself an exercise to see if my friend was right. I wondered if I could produce a mask that was at least as good as the decorated one I had bought from a highly respected mask-studio. I found an unfinished bird mask that I had made a few years ago then set aside because I was unhappy with it, and I attempted to reproduce the decoration from the Venetian mask. The result is above - on the left is the Venetian, and on the right my decorated bird. I'm a bit shaky on the scrollwork, and the 3D gel I used is rather more liquid than the substance they have used, but I think with a little practise and research I could improve considerably.
Finally, I have to say that I don't actually want to create masks that are identical to those produced in Venice. Much as I love the whole Venetian look, I have my own style and am enjoying exploring that. Decorative techniques, however, are always worth learning and adapting.
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Comments: 62

Plucky-lass [2009-03-01 13:17:35 +0000 UTC]

Its sad how Venice masks have for the large part become tourist tat but that was a really uplifting story. I had a similar feeling the first time someone asked me where I bought my costume, but this is obviously a far more detialed apprenticeship.i'm really pleased for you.

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cwicseolfor In reply to Plucky-lass [2009-03-01 16:04:24 +0000 UTC]

I agree with much of the sentiment, but I sort of can't help but think, in reference to what you've said: in any situation where there's going to be untried, inexperienced buyers flocking to an area for any reason, but ESPECIALLY for a festival, there's going to be a lot of glittery trash to try and attract them with. (Ren faire culture in the U.S. and living China have taught me so, anyway.) Thus it's very probable that this "tourist tat*" as you put it has a long and illustrious tradition in Venice as a port city and the heart of Carnevale. Which for me has a sort of delightful paradoxical humor.
*I like this word. It may be my new favorite.

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Plucky-lass In reply to cwicseolfor [2009-03-01 17:02:55 +0000 UTC]

That's true enough, I suppose. But I'd still rather avoid being the gullible tourist if I can

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cwicseolfor In reply to Plucky-lass [2009-03-01 17:13:22 +0000 UTC]

Heh, well, yes. I didn't mean to say that I'd want to be any part of that illustrious history myself. ^-^ I don't do papier-mache, but I know the qualities of a good mask. If it's a mask for wearing, there's an easy test, if permitted - try the thing on. Or, in your case, turn to a friend for a quality design!

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xothique In reply to Plucky-lass [2009-03-01 14:28:59 +0000 UTC]

It always gives you a warm glow when someone makes that sort of comment doesn't it? It really made my day.
I agree about the tourist tat, it#s a shame. Practically every shop had masks of some description, and there were many of them that were moulded plastic and glittyer. ~shudders~
Thankfully there are still a lot of quality hand-made masks in Venice - you just have to look for them with a discerning eye.

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Plucky-lass In reply to xothique [2009-03-01 14:34:44 +0000 UTC]

My husband and I are hoping to be able to afford a trip to next years' Venice carnival (if I can get the costumes finished on time!) and I'm very much getting the impression that if we do end up going we'll want to buy the masks ahead of time rather than there. Its one area of costuming I know nothing about and I'd hate to pay over the odds for something because I can't see the defects or don't want tat.

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xothique In reply to Plucky-lass [2009-03-01 15:24:52 +0000 UTC]

Oh goodness! Don't let me leave you with the wrong impression - I'm very picky when it comes to masks, and in pointing out that the Venetian ones are not all made to the same standard I might have given you the idea that it's all a bit haphazard. It's really not, and there are a lot of high quality and beautiful masks there too. My best advice would be not to buy the first mask that you see, but to look around and take a couple of days to decide.
The tourist tat is easy to recognise, it's covered in glitter and at first glance looks quite nice, but next to some of the more crafted masks, it's quite obviously cheap and nasty. You really will know it when you see it. If it helps, I can send you the addresses of some really nice mask studios that I visited.
It is possible to do Carnival on a budget if you are able to gather a group of friends together and rent an apartment between four or six of you, rather than staying in a hotel. That's how I managed to get to stay there for an entire week, and I'm hoping to do the same next year.
Good luck with creating your costumes, I'd love to see what you come up with.

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Plucky-lass In reply to xothique [2009-03-01 17:01:37 +0000 UTC]

It's also what a pal of mine said, that from a costuming point of view its very hard to find costume and masks within our budget that looks better than the halowe'en shops. Still, its an experience and we're keen to give it a go.

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xothique In reply to Plucky-lass [2009-03-02 11:21:22 +0000 UTC]

It's definitely worth it. Even if all you manage costume-wise is a mask and a hat - and there were plenty of people who did that.

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Plucky-lass In reply to xothique [2009-03-02 11:35:15 +0000 UTC]

I'm not hugely experienced at hat-making, but I'll try. I really want to make a more dramatic outfit though - currently looking at a flamenco dancer pattern and seeing what could be done with it.

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xothique In reply to Plucky-lass [2009-03-03 11:50:27 +0000 UTC]

Oooh, that could be rather spectacular! I'll look forward to seeing the photos when you've made it.

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