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Zhon — Taxidermy Wolf Tutorial - Pt 1
Published: 2008-10-21 12:15:50 +0000 UTC; Views: 36023; Favourites: 287; Downloads: 518
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OK!Some of you asked for it, and now you are getting it!
Here's Phase 1 of the Taxidermy Wolf Tutorial.
There will be more phases to come (like 5... I think)
But here's the beginning!
.
1.) Find a form you like. As you can see, there are two I personally liked wor a wolf in the rugshell department. One with a longer slender nose, and one that was broader.
2.) Test Fit the Skin over the form by wetting the skin, therefore being able to stretch it. Make sure the eyes meet up with the sockets, nose moulds over the front and both sides of the jaw meet the edges.
2.5) While you work on the form, bag the skin and put it in the refridgerator so it doesn't mold or go bad.
3.) If you are making this into a wearable costume, cut the back panel of the rugshell off. That's a non-anatomical piece only for if the skin is to be rugged.
4.) Next, begin rounding the back.
5.) You are looking for a nice curve to the back of the head so the skin drapes down your back without having a severe edge of a drop off.
6.) Cut out the rugshell's backboard.
7.) Start hollowing out the foam by chipping it out with random tools you have around (a metal spoon will work for this). You want to shape it to the contours of your head. Note: This particular costume wolf will be for sitting atop your head like a hat or helmet. You will NOT see through it's eyes. (That'll ruin the taxidermy part of the realism in the face)
8.) Scuff up the outside shell of the form. This allows for optimum adhesion of the air-dry clay that is to be used.
THIS ENDS PHASE 1 OF THE TUTORIAL.
Stay tuned for PHASE 2!
Disclaimer: I did not hunt this wolf. It came to me already tanned from a fellow taxidermist (who didn't hunt it either). I bought it from him and am building this costume/rug for a friend of mine. This wolf came from Canada (NOT Alaska) and was imported with all Federally Legal paperwork!
Therefore the skin was not from a poached animal. All of my skins are legally obtained from taxidermy facilities or licensed hunters I speak with personally.
SO DON'T LEAVE MEAN COMMENTS!
For God's Sake! Only STUPID people leave comments on things they Hate!
For all you who love learning the art of taxidermy...
ENJOY!
Edit: Just loaded a slightly crisper file. DA still kinda fuzzed it.
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Comments: 186
I'm currently trying to learn to make a wolf headdress, this was very helpful . ^^
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This is a really awesome tut, thanks!
Just a thing...where did you find the wolf-head form?
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Thanks!
The wolf head forms come from supply companies like mckenziesp.com or vandykestaxidermy.com
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No problem and thank you for the info! ^^
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Ohh I see. So you make things under the pelt. Like a coat on a mannequin
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Yep! The sculpt underneath makes the fur look alive again!
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or head form?! *hits self in head for being stupid*
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Lol! I got this particular one from jonas-supply.com
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HI! I was wonderin where you got the form for the head?
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From where do you insert the form? The mouth? Or somewhere else? I'm trying to remount a coyote that someone had made before and the form is either really big or the skin just isn't stretching enough. :/ Any tips?
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On big mouthed critters like canines I usually put the headform for plushes through the mouth. on cats and weasels i usually go through the back if it's tubed, or make an incision in the throat and put it in that way.
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Hello, sorry to bother you with a question, but I found the wolf head you used for the tutorial. Suppose I am doing a costume where it's mounted on my helmet (quadsuit), should I cut and hollow the neck, and then leave an opening so I could see through the mouth? I'm just wondering that's all
One more thing..
For this type of head: [link] Would it be a (hopefully) lightweight foam head or is it something else?
Thank you.
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if you hollow it out from the inside, i dont see why it wouldnt work.
And that form should work! It's pretty lightweight foam they use. Just, call them and order it without a backboard. Rugshells come with those. So just order it without it and you save yourself the trouble of chipping off the wood bottom and possibly ruining the lower jaw since the wood sits right next to the bottom teeth.
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Alrighty, thank you! I'll try that then and heed your advice. I ordered the head shortly before you replied 
Happy belated Holidays!
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Whoa this i cool! I'd like to try to make a wolf helmet sometime..
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I cry for the wolf that died~ I'm glad however that you obtain the skin legally. Impressive work on the sculpture of the head.
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Did you buy a premade foam shape to fit the skin on? If so, where do you find these premade forms? Are they expensive?
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I buy rugshells from vandykestaxidermy.com or mckenziesp.com They tend to be around $60-80.
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I have a question,
Where can I get a wolf head mount? (the one in picture 1)
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Any taxidermy supply shop!
Go to any of these sites and request a free catalog:
mckenziesp.com
jonas-supply.com
vandykestaxidermy.com
All 3 of those catalogs will be mailed to you free of charge and are HUGE! Especially go for the Mckenzie one which is telephone book size with EVERYTHING!
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I have to ask - Where did you get the wolf head mold/form thingy?
I'm not a fan of fur but I wanna try and make my own wolf-rug thingy with some fake fur, I just need the head (teeth and eyes will be my next issue if I manage to get the head)
Also - Are the heads expensive?
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I have bought them from Jonas-supply.com but you can get them from other companies like McKenziesp.com or vandykestaxidermy.com. Since then I've perfected my own sculpt and began casting my own.
And a faux wolf rug would be pretty cool! I'm suprised no one else has tried (that I know of) yet.
The heads cost average of about $35 if they are closed mouth with no jaw. If they install a jaw it'd be about $50-75 depending on quality.
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Its okay, I went onto Taxidermy.net and RedWolf kindly linked me to some on this site, here is one I like (Im going to trim the neck away)
[link]
I already have a faux fur tiger rug (tigers mouth is closed tho xD)
Thanks anyways tho, I'll check out the places you listed
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You can actually call that company and ask for a "head only" and they should be able to make it for a discounted price cuz they won't be wasting foam. So I'd ask them if you have the time!
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what exactly do you use to wet the skin?? I FINALLY got my coyote and im using this tutorial for my first soft taxi.
he was tanned with aluminum sulfate (tiny crumbly pieces everywhere in the ears and insides) and I dont want to ruin him before I get started X_X
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Just saltwater. get a gallon of water and throw in a handful of salt. Stir until mixed. Salt acts as a softening agent for the nose, ears and lips.
Uhm.... if he is crumbly... he may not be mountable. If the skin is older than 5 years old...it may be too late for taxidermy.
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hes not crumbly himself its the left over tanning stuff they used, it feels like tiny grains that are left on his fur. they said they received him in Jan. but the way they skinned him is tubed so Im not sure how Im supposed to go about mounting his rug shell head if I have to slide it through the bottom end (XD) that and they also split the paws through the big pad too.
Im not quite liking the way the seller tanned him because they left pieces around the opening and it dried in the fur.
but I was wondering for the salt water mix, do I submerge the entire thing in it or merely spray it with a bottle. I dont want to ruin his nice thick coat
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You will need to split the pelt to get a rugshell in. Just split down the belly. They tube them for people who like to choose to split down belly for rug or split down back for dorsal taxidermy.
Sounds like he may need a dog-comb taken to him if he's matted or has randomness caught in the underfur.
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ok, I can cut the belly up to the chest.
Im a bit afraid to brush him out as he is because of all the matting in places from the tanning crap. I was wondering if itd be best to soak him in the gallon mix and THEN brush him while his fur is wet so its easier to get it out with out pulling fur.
I checked him over thoroughly and these tanners where ever this guy took him too did a half ass job, theres still bits of meat hanging on the cuts, I found a few slip holes in him and his under belly by the bottom opening is just matted, greasy and a mess.
but about the salt mix again (sorry im asking way too many questions and keeping you up) how long should he be soaked?
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honestly... it works like human hair... if you brush while wet th hair has potential to break. Dry is the best... but it shouldn't make too much of a difference on a well furred animal. Maybe some conditioner too.
As for the saltwater, I keep it soaking for about 30 mins to an hour until the nose and ears are soft and pliable.
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ok that seems reasonable to do but conditioner? lol will actually giving him a "bath" make his fur smoother? his tail feels coarse after all.
I posted pics in my journal of him so you can see what I am working with. he is a aluminum sulfate tan so who knows how well he will hold up to stretching and pulling.
my supplies should be coming tomorrow (hopefully, after all my yote was a day late)
im excited to work on him since he is my first and most definetly not my last ^^
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Wow... he does look a bit rough. Well... I'm not sure what the skin is like but it looks pretty bad... not sure if you'd want to wash it but if so, do it with care and at risk of tearing. But the little crispies look like tanning crystals and dirt... perhaps sawdust if he was hardwood tumbled. If he feels oily I'd definitely wash him all out.
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yea he didnt clean him out well im still finding "jerky" pieces around the splits and he left goobers in his fur and discolored his crotch (XD) AutmnCreek told me to be careful as well she thinks that the way hes tanned might cause dry rot in a way and advised I do a small section in the salt water before I work.
the guy did say he is completely mountable. there are small rips in his lip but its nothing clay can fix up.
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Yeah, I'd test out a small patch too.... if he is mountable... I don't think you'd want to soft mount him (strain on that leather may cause ripping if cuddled)...
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his an seems tough though its just the lips im worried about when tucking cus of the small rip above the lip line. I will definitely try a small part first, Im thinking his first half of his muzzle cus I need to durl that lip down and unsquish his nose lol
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will this tutorial work for soft taxidermies too?
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Yes, it will work for any open-mouth heads. In a closed mouth head you would just tuck the lips into their respective slots.
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ok ^^ yay! cus im looking at pelts on line so I can do my first soft tax, but where do you get the clay and eyes? Im not sure there is a taxidermy store near me, just hunting stores like Gander Mountain
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If wanted, I could supply you with some eyes. The clay is a typical air dry clay.; Preferrably a taxidermy grade like CT3 or Aves. Aves is the best and can be gotten online through mckenziesp.com or jonas-supply.com.... any major taxidermy supply company.
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i actually found a taxi site called Van Dykes and they have pretty good prices, they dont have the exact stuff you used but they do have similar stuff and good quantities too. I found a quart of hide paste for 12 bucks and the eyes range 3 to 10 bucks and the heads are cheap too ^^
I just have one question though Zhon, you mentioned that cased pelt is the best to work with, but wouldnt it need to be cut to get the rug shell in it?
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hey where can you buy the equipment? just wondering
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You can order them through me or go to sites like Jonas-Supply.com, mckenziesp.com or wasco.com
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thanks for the links
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