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willofthewisp — lockplate
Published: 2008-02-05 22:09:43 +0000 UTC; Views: 401; Favourites: 8; Downloads: 9
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Description
Copper 22cm by 14cm I was recently commissioned to make props for a film, a zombie flick I think. This one is the lockplate for the crypt.Related content
Comments: 8
That is really terrific - particularly the patina.
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It is a really simple process to get that patina. I mix up a small cup of dilute warm liver of sulfur solution, and wearing rubber gloves I apply a little of the solution to the copper with steel wool. I rub the steel wool to give the surface a burnished texture and to even out the patina. When ever part of the piece is dark enough I rinse the metal. For a darker finish I let the metal darken longer before rinsing, and for a lighter finish I rub more vigorously with the steel wool. I find this to be much more reliable than dipping the whole piece in the solution, and much faster than patinas made by fuming.
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Copper is forgiving, and still not too expensive.
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Thanks for the info. I really have to make something I can use it on.
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I used a handful of hammer driven punches with the copper sheet resting on a smooth flat anvil. The main punch was about 9mm across, and curved equally in both axises on the face. I also used a variety of smaller asymmetric punches to do the edges and corners. The metal displaced by the punch-work is what makes the teeth and keyhole bulge up. The work distorts all the while when you work and often the piece must be flattened with a soft mallet on a piece of timber that has been shaved flat. Once made I worked the surface with a radial bristle wheel that was, I think, a 220 grit. After that I darkened the copper with dilute liver of sulfur and steel wool.
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You can make your own punches, and out of all sorts of old tools. I use punches that I made from old allen wrenches, broken fencing blades, small chisels, and worn out nail sets. All of these sorts of tools are already hardened and tempered, and as long as you do not over heat them they will stay that way. I use a bench grinder to trim and rough out the punches, and then sand them smooth up to a 600 grit. After that I polish them with white diamond on a hard felt buffing wheel. If you don't have a buffing machine, you can do just as good a job by hand polishing with a bit of oak tanned leather on a stick with semi-chrome polish rubbed on it.
Liver of Sulfur is nasty stuff, but works well, and is not as dangerous as some of the silver and bronze blacking preparations that a lot of people use. The one real down side is that once you mix it up it will not last long, but will decay in at most a week. I simply mix up only a small amount, and toss what is left when I am done. You need not submerge the piece, and I find I have much better control rubbing it on with a bit of steel wool. I take some disposable tub like a yogurt container, fill it with warm water, and put in a piece of liver of sulfur about the size of a small pea. The stuff stinks and will cause you skin to turn yellow and fall off if you work with bare hands, and the stuff smells like rotten eggs. If you work outside and with thin rubber gloves it is fine though. I also set up a rinse tub large enough to dip the piece with warm water. For large projects this is usually a big plastic washtub, and for really large work there is the garden hose. I dip the steel wool in the liver of sulfur solution and rub the copper, rinsing often to prevent over-darkening. By adjusting the concentration, the water temperature, and time you can get a huge variety of colors and textures, without much trouble.
And thanks for the watch.
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Wow thanks. That was a lot more detail than I was expecting. Most people go with 'I used such-n-such object.' I figured it was punches but thought I'd just check. I've never used the sulfur myself but I've seen good results consistently with it. This and the key are both good pieces. I am adding you to my watch list.
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